The Perfume Bee

The Perfume Bee Has Moved!

2007-04-01T14:15:00.000-07:00

I've made the leap from Blogger to Wordpress. With this change comes a new look and a new address:

http://theperfumebee.com

If you've included me in your blogroll or list of favorites (for which I am most appreciative!), please change the link to:

http://theperfumebee.com

In celebration of the big move, I am giving away a special fragrance in a prize drawing.

I hope you'll buzz over to the new website and check it out!

All the best,
Christine

Spring Break

2007-03-29T09:28:00.000-07:00

Just a note to let you know I'm away for the week. It's Spring Break in Oregon and I'm at the beautiful Oregon Coast.

The Perfume Bee has been undergoing some fresh changes in format and design lately. I will share the new look with you next week. Meanwhile, here are some of my favorite pictures of the Oregon Coast. Have a great week!

Yaquina Head Lighthouse

Oregon Inlet

Pacific Sunset

photos © Copyright 2007 by The Perfume Bee.

My New e-Book is Available: "The Perfume-Lover's Guide to Paris: A 3-Day Walking Tour"

2007-03-26T00:01:00.000-07:00

I am happy to announce my new e-book, The Perfume-Lover's Guide to Paris: A 3-Day Walking Tour, is now available for immediate download.

This practical, easy-to-use guide is for people who want to visit the city's finest boutique perfumeries by foot and by metro. Written as the guide I'd wished I'd had on my recent trip to Paris, this e-book is filled with useful addresses, metro stops, photographs, and descriptions of the major perfumeries in the perfume capital of the world.

Guerlain...L'Artisan Parfumeur...Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle...Caron...Etat Libre d'Orange... these and many more perfumeries are covered in the guide.

Whether you have a few hours or a few days, if you love perfume and you are going to Paris, I think you'll find this guide useful. 33 pages.

Cost: $9.95 US dollars

Niche Fragrance Launch: Two New Scents from "Eau d'Italie"

2007-03-23T08:50:00.000-07:00

Sienne l'Hiver and Bois d'Ombre
image source: wwd.com

The 3-year old niche fragrance line Eau d'Italie, has announced the creation of two new scents: Sienne l'Hiver (Siena in Winter) and Bois d'Ombre (Woods of Umbria). The fragrances were blended by French perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour (Créations Aromatiques) and were inspired by the Italian winter. The co-founders of Eau d'Italie, Marina Sersale and Sebastián Alvarez Murena, had originally planned on launching just one fragrance inspired by winter in Italy.

"We wanted to work on the idea of winter in Italy, so we sent the perfumer some ideas. He came back to us with two very unique and completely different proposals, both of which we loved and decided to work on, with the intention of later choosing between them," said Sersale. "In the end we decided to launch both of them. What we create depends very much on what inspires us, and this allows us a lot of creative freedom." (via wwd.com)

The unisex fragrances are described (by Eau d'Italie) as follows:

Sienne l'Hiver: an earthy fragrance composed of subtle nuances like coal roasted chestnuts, black olive, autumn leaves and truffles followed up by French straw, iris root and white musk.

Bois d'Ombre: a deep woodsy scent with hints of cognac, leather, iris root and vetiver.

The fragrances, both to be available in 3.4-oz. bottles eau de toilette, will retail for $120 each and will be available in the U.S. in June. Retailers will include Lafco in New York and Los Angeles and Takashimaya (tel. 212-350-0100) in New York.

To read more about Eau d'Italie, please visit wwd.com.

Fifi Awards Finalists Announced

2007-03-22T00:01:00.000-07:00

Fifi Award
The FiFi Awards are an annual event to honor the fragrance industry’s creative achievements and are considered the “Oscars” of the global fragrance industry. Over 1,000 members of the international fragrance community attend the glamorous “FiFi” Ceremonies, held in New York City. The awards are presented by celebrities from the world of fashion, theater, film and TV.

This year's top 10 finalists for the major categories have just been announced by the Fragrance Foundation. Winners will be announced during the 35th Annual FiFi Awards & Celebration held on Thursday, May 31st, 2007 at the Winter Garden at The World Financial Center in New York City.

Here are the top 10 finalists for Fragrance of the Year FiFi Award in each distribution category (in alphabetical order):

NOUVEAU NICHE – WOMEN’S:
• Ange ou Démon – Parfums Givenchy
• Anna Sui Dolly Girl on the Beach – P&G Prestige Products, Inc.
• Armani Privé Cuir Amethyste (unisex) – Giorgio Armani Parfums
• Delices de Cartier – Cartier North America
• Fleur de Narcisse 2006 – L’Artisan Parfumeur
• KenzoAmour – Kenzo Parfums
• Missoni Eau de Parfum – Missoni Profumi
• The Scent of Peace Bond No. 9 New York – Laurice & Co.
• Tom Ford Black Orchid – Tom Ford Beauty
• Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb Extreme Amethyst Edition – L’Oréal USA

NOUVEAU NICHE - MEN’S (Eleven finalists due to one tie):
• Armani Privé Cuir Amethyste (unisex) – Giorgio Armani Parfums
• Baldessarini Ambre – P&G Prestige Products, Inc.
• David Beckham Instinct – Coty Beauty
• Dunhill Pursuit – P&G Prestige Products, Inc.
• Figue Eau de Toilette by Calypso Christiane Celle (unisex) – Calypso Christiane Celle
• Fire Island Bond No. 9 New York – Laurice & Co.
• Fou d’Absinthe – L’Artisan Parfumeur
• L’Homme Yves Saint Laurent – YSL Beaute
• Montblanc Starwalker – P&G Prestige Products, Inc.
• Paul Smith Story – P&G Prestige Products, Inc./Inter Parfums USA
• Viktor & Rolf Antidote – L’Oréal USA

LUXE – WOMEN’S:
• Armani Code for Women – Giorgio Armani Parfums
• Badgley Mischka – Elizabeth Arden
• Betsey Johnson Parfum – Colorful Licenses USA/Karis Group Ltd.
• Burberry London for Women – P&G Prestige Products, Inc./Burberry Fragrances
• Donna Karan Gold Eau de Parfum – Donna Karan Cosmetics
• Insolence – Guerlain
• Juicy Couture – Liz Claiborne Cosmetics
• Pure White Linen – Estée Lauder
• Stella in Two – Stella McCartney Parfums
• Vera Wang Princess – Coty Prestige

LUXE – MEN’S:
• Burberry London for Men – P&G Prestige Products, Inc./Burberry Fragrances
• Calvin Klein euphoria for Men – Coty Prestige
• Cannabis Santal Eau de Parfum – Fresh Inc.
• Lacoste Essential – P&G Prestige Products, Inc.
• Lucky Number 6 for Men by Lucky Brand Jeans – Liz Claiborne Cosmetics
• Polo Double Black – Ralph Lauren Fragrances
• Prada – Puig USA
• Terre d’Hermès – Hermès
• Unforgivable by Sean John – Sean John Fragrances/Estée Lauder
• Versace Man Eau Fraiche – EuroItaly/Fragrances Elite International

POPULAR APPEAL – WOMEN’S (Five finalists in this category):
• American Beauty Wonderful Indulgence – BeautyBank Inc.
• Bijan Black Women – Five Star Fragrance Company
• Celine Dion Parfums Always Belong – Coty Beauty
• Dianoche by Daisy Fuentes – BeautyBank Inc.
• Stacie J – Golden – Revelations Perfume & Cosmetics, Inc.

POPULAR APPEAL – MEN’S (Two finalists in this category):
• Antonio Antonio Banderas – Puig Beauty USA, Inc.
• Bijan Black Men – Five Star Fragrance Company

PRIVATE LABEL/DIRECT SELL – WOMEN’S (Eleven finalists due to one tie):
• Banana Republic Alabaster – Inter Parfums USA
• Banana Republic Jade – Inter Parfums USA
• Banana Republic Rosewood – Inter Parfums USA
• Crystal Aura – Avon Products, Inc.
• Dream Angels Desire – Victoria’s Secret Beauty
• Mary Kay® Affection™ – Mary Kay Inc.
• Play-Doh – Demeter Fragrance Library
• Secrets d’Essences Voile d’Ambre – Yves Rocher Inc.
• Signature Collection Japanese Cherry Blossom EDT & Perfume Mist – Bath and Body Works
• Signature Collection Sensual Amber EDT & Perfume Mist – Bath and Body Works
• Thierry Mugler Interprets Perfume: The Story of a Murderer (unisex) – Clarins Fragrance Group

PRIVATE LABEL/DIRECT SELL – MEN’S (Five finalists in this category):
• Banana Republic Black Walnut – Inter Parfums USA
• Banana Republic Slate – Inter Parfums USA
• Driven – Derek Jeter – Avon Products, Inc.
• Re: Verb – Revelations Perfume & Cosmetics, Inc.
• Thierry Mugler Interprets Perfume: The Story of a Murderer (unisex) – Clarins Fragrance Group

To learn more about the Fifis and the Fragrance Foundation, please go to the fragrance foundation website.

Jasmine 2006 Literary Award Goes to Hannah Betts

2007-03-20T08:40:00.000-07:00

Journalist Hannah Betts has been awarded the 2006 Literary Award for new press at the 2006 Jasmine Awards, the most prestigious awards in beauty journalism. Her award-winning article is titled "Picking up the Scent," in which she discusses the development of one's olfactory palette. She states:

Fragrance is the consummate marriage of art and science, and it pays to approach the subject with the seriousness with which you indulge other sources of sensory and aesthetic stimulation, such as music, literature, wine and food.

The three principal genres are: floral, oriental (musky, spicy and exotic), and chypre (citrus top notes, floral heart, mossy underbelly).

....In developing an olfactory palette you rapidly come to appreciate that tastes collide. My own penchant for the mossier, leatherier, more resinous chypres such as Caron's Tabac Blond chimes with my predilections in tea, wine, food and scotch, where a smoky lapsang or peaty Islay malt will always be more desirable than pastry or pudding and wine.

Her poetic prose is a delight to read. And her clarification of what defines a chypre is worthy of a read all by itself. To check out the rest of the article, please visit the TimesOnline.

Guerlain Launches New L’Art et la Matière Fragrance: Iris Ganache

2007-03-19T08:04:00.000-07:00

Iris Ganache by Guerlain
image source: OsMoz

The House of Guerlain has announced the launch of its fifth fragrance in the niche L’Art et la Matière collection: Iris Ganache. According to OsMoz, this fragrance

‘envelopes you like a pashmina shawl, and leaves a powdery trail of an extreme elegance’. Created by designer Thierry Wasser / Firmenich, in collaboration with Sylvaine Delacourte, Iris Ganache reveals an iris butter ‘worked like a pastry ganache’. A mouthwatering scent, like ‘white chocolate shaded with floral notes’ and enhanced with cinnamon, bergamot, patchouli, white musks, cedar and a slightly ambery vanilla note.

This sounds like a very warm, all-enveloping fragrance. Although I must admit to being a bit confused by the description. Is it more like a powdery pashmina shawl or a flowery, buttered pastry? Or a little of both? Like wrapping oneself in a gooey, sugary chocolate éclair?

Mixed metaphors aside, if it is anything like the first four fragrances in the collection, it is sure to be exquisite. Please click here to see my previous comments about this collection.

This fragrance will be available at the Paris House of Guerlain in June.

Molinard Perfume Launches New Series

2007-03-16T00:01:00.000-07:00

La Collection parfumée de Molinard
image source: OsMoz

The House of Molinard has announced a new fragrance collection called La Collection parfumée de Molinard. The collection involves a restyling of the house bottles to have sleek lines, rounded shoulders and sharp corners.

The creations have been grouped into 6 families: ‘Les Fleurs’, ‘Au Féminin’, ‘Les Orientaux’, ‘La Fraîcheur’, ‘Les Fruits’ and ‘Au Masculin’. (The Collection includes) six new fragrances: Bois Fleuri (Wood in Bloom), Vents et Marées (Winds & Tides), Pêche de Vigne (Red Peach), Chypre d’Orient, Eau de Verveine and Eau de Citrus. (via OsMoz)

The collection is due to be released in April.

While I have not yet tried these new fragrances, just reading about them made me nostalgic for other Molinard scents. So today I wore Habinata, the floral-oriental fragrance created in 1921. It features (via Ayala writing on Basenotes):

Top notes: Mastic, Cedarwood, Lavender, Bergamot, a hint of Juniper berry, Leather notes

Heart notes: Jasmine, Rose, Peach, Heliotrope

Base notes: Vanilla, Tobacco, Tonka Bean, Amber, Oakmoss, Musk, Opoponax, Vetiver

It is a rich, smoky fragrance that evokes the energy of the flappers of the Roaring Twenties. I imagine wearing it while frenetically dancing the Charleston, faux pearl strands a-flyin'!

Flapper does the Charleston;
image source: wikipedia.org

For my previous post about Molinard, please click here.

Chanel No. 19: Quest for the Eau de Parfum Continues

2007-03-15T08:39:00.000-07:00

In a previous post, there was a question regarding the availability of Chanel No. 19 eau de parfum. I have received a letter from Chanel-USA's customer relations department, as follows:

Dear Christine,

Thank you for your inquiry regarding CHANEL N°19, that was Mademoiselle
Chanel's personal perfume and named to celebrate her August 19 birthday.
Like its creator, Nº19 is forever young, intensely feminine,
contemporary and supremely spirited.

CHANEL N°19 Eau de Parfum is discontinued (emphasis added). I searched all CHANEL
Boutiques in the US and was unable to locate any remaining inventory of
that item....

CHANEL Nº19 can be enjoyed the following forms:

-- CHANEL Nº19 Eau de Toilette Spray ....

-- CHANEL Nº19 Body Lotion ....

Thank you for your interest in CHANEL.

Best regards,
(name)
Consumer Relations
CHANEL, Inc.

I had written my query to CHANEL-France, and my letter was forwarded to the American office. Thus, the answer is still incomplete. We know that in the United States, eau de toilette is the only form in which our beautiful Chanel No 19 is available. HOWEVER, I still have questions as to the availability of the eau de parfum (and parfum) in France. If any of you can shed light on this mystery, please drop me a line! Together, we can figure this out!

images source: french Chanel.com

Fragrance Launch: "Purplelight" by Dali

2007-03-14T08:46:00.000-07:00

First there was Dali Purplelips, a floral/amber fragrance with notes of blueberry(!), purple granadilla, vanilla orchid, violet, amber and sandalwood. It was created by perfumers Antoine Lie and Guillaume Flavigny (Givaudan) and launched in September 2006.

In May of this year, Dali fragrances will be releasing Purplelight. This woody/floral/musky fragrance was created by perfumer Francis Kurkdjian (Takasago). It features notes of lilac, jasmine, cherry blossom, bamboo leaf and Tahitian tiaré blossom over a base of almond wood, vetiver and musk.

Eau de Toilette 1, 1.7 and 3.4 fl. oz.; Price €28 to 58.

What will be next? "Purple Rain"?

You go, Prince!

YouTube Video: "Prince 1987 LS Tour Live"
Perfume image and notes source: OsMoz.com.

Christian Lacroix Launches New Fragrance: "C'est la Fête!"

2007-03-13T16:00:00.000-07:00

Designer Christian Lacroix has announced the launch of his newest fragrance, C'est la Fête! This translates into English as It's Party Time! and this joyous energy is captured in the bright tropical hues of the packaging and flacon. Created by perfumer Jean Jacques (Takasago), the fragrance contains:

Top notes:
Pear
Passion Fruit
Blackcurrant
Bergamot
Apricot

Heart Notes:
Mirabelle
Jasmine
Tagette
Rose
Orchid
Vanilla

Base Notes:
Sandalwood
Musk

Price: 30 ml - 28€; 50 ml - 42€; 100 ml - 55 €; 200ml - 70 € ($37-$93).

image and notes source: beaute-addict.com.

Niche Perfumers in the News

2007-03-12T21:00:00.000-07:00

Because our olfactory sense is so closely linked to memory, people remember what perfume you wore long after they have forgotten what you had on. This is why you should spend at least as much time selecting a signature fragrance as you would on a wonderful dress. -- Mona di Orio, The Daily Mail

In a not-so-recent (August 2006) Daily Mail UK article, author Judith Keeling interviews 4 notable women perfumers. She talks to Patricia de Nicolai (Parfums de Nicolai), Lyn Harris, (Miller Harris), Celine Ellena (The Different Company) and Mona di Orio , (Mona di Orio perfumes). The reason for bringing this article to your attention is that it highlights the creative minds behind four of my favorite niche perfumeries. In a world that has long been dominated by male perfumers, it is refreshing to hear from such gifted female noses. To read the entire article, please go to Scent of Success.

Meanwhile, our friends across the pond share their views on celebrity fragrances in a Daily Mail UK article today titled, "Celebrity Scents on Trial: From Celine to J-Lo." Readers of The Perfume Bee will know that I am not a big fan of celebrity fragrances. Quite the contrary. But I include a link to this post because it features comments by Roja Dove, one of the world's leading fragrance experts whose comments are always insightful, if sometimes blunt. For this article, please click here.

Fragrance Review: Éclat d'Arpège

2007-03-11T21:25:00.000-07:00

Beautiful, limited-edition bottle of Éclat d'Arpège

image source: Nordstrom

On this misty, nearly-end-of-winter day, I felt drawn to spritz on one of my favorite springtime scents: Éclat d'Arpège. From the elegant house of Lanvin, Éclat d'Arpège was created by perfumer Karine Dubreuil and released in 2003.

This is a light, musky floral fragrance that starts off with a crisp, green lemony top note. It maintains a certain tartness as it evolves into the sweet, peachy floral center. The red peony and Chinese osmanthus give it a beautiful heart, which rests lightly on an ambery and musk base. This fragrance always reminds me of a beautiful summer day in London, which is where I first purchased it while on vacation in June of 2003. I remember with fondness carefully examining all of the new fragrances at Selfridges and selecting this as "the one" to bring back to the States with me. It has proven to be a wonderful, popular choice -- one that I have received many favorable comments on.

It contains the following notes (from Lanvin):

Top Notes: Sicilian Lemon Leaves, Green Lilac

Heart Notes: Wisteria blossom, Green Tea Leaves, Peach Blossom, Red Peony, Chinese Osmanthus

Base Notes: White Cedar of Lebanon, Sweet Musk, Precious Amber

The Art-Deco bottle was designed in 1927 for one of the earliest Lanvin fragrances, Arpège. That fragrance was designed by Jeanne Lanvin for her daughter, Marguerite as a tribute to a mother's love for her child.

This maternal love is represented by the perfume's emblem, unique in its kind: a woman and child, reresenting Jeanne Lanvin and her daughter, in an attitude of loving tenderness. This emblem later became the symbol of Lanvin.

This is one of my favorite bottles, and everytime I look at the image of the little girl playfully swinging from her mother's outstretched hands, I am touched by its tender poignancy.

Cost: 1.7-oz spray limited-edition bottle, $70. Available at Nordstrom.com. The entire collection is available at The Perfume House.

image source: Nordstrom

Chanel Announces New Fragrance for Men: "Allure Homme Sport"

2007-03-09T15:31:00.000-08:00

Chanel has announced the launch of its newest fragrance for men, Chanel Allure Homme Sport. It was created by Chanel perfumer Jacques Polge (who, as you may recall, created the six new Chanel Les Exclusifs. Does this tireless man never rest?!?).
Described as "dazzling," "fresh," "sunny," "gentle," and "elegant," this eau contains notes of citrus (mandarin orange, lemon, grapefruit, bergamot), elemi resin, cedar and white musks.

Cost: 5 fl-oz. spray bottle: €72 ($94.40 at today's exchange rate), from March 16th.

image and notes source: OsMoz.

Vintage Men's Fragrances

2007-03-09T07:00:00.000-08:00

Eau Sauvage, by Dior, was created in 1966 by perfumer Edmond Roudnitska. With top notes of lemon, rosemary and petigrain; heart notes of basil and water jasmine; and base notes of vetiver, it has been one of the best-selling fragrances in France for the past 40 years. Last Sunday's Times Online (UK) offers a guide to this and seven other classic vintage men's fragrances. The writer suggests that if you don't know which fragrance to wear,

...then something that has lasted more than 50 years is a safe bet. You will find that vintage scents move with more grace than modern ones, and change more slowly on the skin. They are more feral, their vanilla dustier and their woods more mysterious. They are the product of old loves, the works of men long-buried but, amazingly, still bottled an for sale.

To see the list of 8 men's classics, you can read the rest of the article here.

Eau Sauvage is available in 50-ml and 100-ml spray eau de toilette at nordstrom and saks.

perfume ad image: images de parfums.

California Dreamin'

2007-03-08T09:10:00.000-08:00

For those of you who want to know more about the very cool Los Angeles fragrance scene, have I got the link for you! This month's OsMoz magazine features a wonderful "road trip" to L.A.,

where Agnes, our Made in USA fragrance expert, went to the hottest spots and chic-est boutiques to find out everything you always wanted to know about the perfumes, the designers and the stars...

Agnes discovered some really great boutiques and does a terrific job of describing them. For each locale, she highlights special and unique fragrances that may make you want to hop on the next plane to LA! To read the complete article, click here.

Enjoy!

image source: OsMoz

Scent Education Promoted by Christopohe Laudamiel

2007-03-06T20:55:00.000-08:00

Practice makes perfect, or so the saying goes. Many of us have found this to be the case when learning to play a musical instrument, learning a new sport, or attempting any number of new activities. Repetition, training and practice improve our skills in most areas of our lives. And yet, for some reason the thought of improving our ability to distinguish various scents is rarely considered or discussed.

Fortunately, this does not have to be the case. Even as wine connoisseurs are able to refine their sense of taste, so, to, can perfumers refine their sense of smell. And the good news for the rest of us is that such olfactory refinement is not limited to master perfumers (or "noses"). We are all "trainable" in terms of our ability to improve our scent recognition and memory. Granted, there are those with greater natural talents in this area, even as there are those people who are born with perfect pitch. But there is hope that we each possess the capacity to greatly improve our olfactory sense and, subsequently, our enjoyment of fine perfume.

Interestingly, some experts are of the opinion that scent training should be a regular part of a child's education. They believe olfactory training should begin at an early age, when other skills are developing. For instance, renowned perfumer Christophe Laudamiel (co-creator with Cristoph Hornetz on the Thierry Mugler Parfums' 'Le Coffret' for the movie, “Perfume, The Story of a Murderer”) has teamed up with the Fragrance Foundation to develop a program that he hopes will bring scent awareness training to school-aged children in all public schools. In a recent Boston Globe article, Laudamiel states,

We are now going into phase two of the program to find out what would be appropriate for the curriculum of schools....This is a time when kids are learning a new language or starting music or drawing. Scent is just another sense that they have to awaken.

Laudamiel hopes that olfactory training will enable people to develop a deeper understanding and appreciation for the fine notes in a perfume. He compares perfumery to music, architecture and painting. Understanding the notes and instruments involved with a symphony orchestra make going to a concert an even more enjoyable experience. Similarly, he believes scent education will enhance an individual's appreciation for fine fragrances.

I agree wholeheartedly with Laudamiel's assessment of our need for scent training. In light of that, I am embarking on my own personal "scent training" program. I have a lot to learn, and I will share the details and my progress in future posts. Stay tuned, and meanwhile, I'd love to hear about your own experiences with "learning how to smell."

For further reading about Christian Laudamiel and his views on olfactory training, please see this 2004 interview as well as this recent interview on Basenotes.

photo source: National Science Teachers Association (2004)

Cacharel's New "Liberté" Fragrance to Launch this Spring

2007-03-05T20:40:00.000-08:00

Cacharel (owned by L'Oréal) has announced the upcoming launch of its newest fragrance, Liberté (French for "Freedom"). Described as a "chypre orange juice," it was created by International Flavors & Fragrances perfumers Olivier Polge and Domitille Bertier. It contains:

Top notes: bitter orange, plus zests of bergamot, citrus and mandarin;
Heart notes: white flowers;
Base notes: patchouli from Indonesia, vetiver and vanilla.

Liberté is scheduled to launch in Europe beginning this spring and in the U.S. probably in the second half of this year. It will be available in 3 sizes. In France, the 30-ml. eau de toilette spray will retail for 33 euros, or $43.60 at current exchange rates; the 50-ml. spray for 49 euros, or $64.75, and the 95-ml. edt spray for 62 euros, or $81.95.

Liberté's tall, multifaceted orange bottle was designed to look like an abstract flower. It was inspired by the works of artist Dan Flavin, known for his beautiful creations with fluorescent light tubes.

Dan Flavin, untitled (to Barnett Newman to commemorate his simple problem, red, yellow and blue), 1970

For more information about this 'thinking-outside-the-frame' artist, please see the Dia Art Foundation website.

perfume image and information source: wwd.com.
Dan Flavin's artwork: National Gallery of Art.

Better-Know-A-Niche Perfumery: fresh scents / terri

2007-03-04T17:30:00.000-08:00

Sometimes we just need to breathe. And if it takes a flacon of eau de parfum to remind us, all the better! Which is why I immediately went for Fresh Scents / Terri's Breathe eau de parfum. An uplifting combination of Light Musk and China Rain, it is smells very crisp, clean and light. The whimsical label shows a line drawing of a woman surrounded by fluttering butterflies that look as if they are reminding her to take life a little less seriously. The entire line looks like it is designed to uplift and inspire.

Fresh Scents / Terri is the creation of perfumer Terri Weitzman. Terri lives in southern Californian and started creating her fragrances about four years ago. Her line consists of oils, lotions, body washes and bath & shower gels. There are 7 women's fragrances and 2 for men:

Dream - Notes of vanilla and fig.

My LuLu - A blend of China Rain and Gardenia.

Oh Baby! - A blend of China Musk and Pikaki.

Breathe - A blend of White Rain and Light Musk.

Zoe - A blend of Light Musk and Sheer Musk.

Tangerine Kiss - Notes of cucumber, lime, watermelon and tangerine (available with a bronze shimmer).

Berry Cute - A blend of blackberry and vanilla creme (with purple and gold shimmer).

Peachy Keen - A blend of peach and vanilla creme (with peach and gold shimmer).

My Man - A blend of bergamot and musks.

Gregory - A blend of patchouli, ylang ylang, and leather.

The fragrances are available as 2-oz spray eau de parfum ($48); 1/3-oz. roll-on ($38 - first five fragrances only); and as a 10-piece sample set ($7 plus $6.95 s/h). The bath products cost $25 each. They can be ordered online at freshscentsterri.com and at select boutiques.

image source: freshscentsterri.com

Serge Lutens, 'Goldsmith of the Senses,' Awarded French Honor

2007-03-02T10:10:00.000-08:00

Serge Lutens and Renaud Donnedieu de Vabres

Fragrance designer Serge Lutens was recently awarded one of France's highest cultural honors: the insignia of the rank of Commander of the Order of Arts and Letters. Established in 1957, The Order of Arts and Letters recognizes artists and others who have contributed to furthering the arts in France and throughout the world. Within the Order, Commander is the highest rank and a maximum of twenty such awards are given each year.

Medallion, Commander in the Order of Arts and Letters (image source: culture.gouv.fr)

In presenting the award, French Minister of Culture and Communication, Renaud Donnedieu de Vabres praised Lutens, describing

‘the immense talent of a true aesthete, a goldsmith of the senses, an extraordinary creator of images, who has made the quest for beauty his life’s work, and who has been a continual inspiration for the new artistic scene’ (photo and info source: osMoz.com.

Serge Lutens is an extremely innovative perfumer and is the genius behind the Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido line of exquisite fragrances. Some of these include Iris Silver Mist, Tubéreuse Criminelle, A La Nuit, and his latest release, Rousse. For more about this niche line, please see my prior post.

Congratulations, M. Lutens!

Mood and Scent: Clarins Eau Ensoleillante

2007-03-01T12:45:00.000-08:00

Clarins' new summer essence is called Eau Ensoleillante, which translates as "Sunnying Scent." Isn't that delightful??? I, for one, am all in favor of anything that can be considered "sunnying." It implies brightness and cheeriness of the highest order.

But what is it about this essence that gives it these solarial qualities? First of all, the liquid itself is orange-hued. The color orange is a tried-and-true mood-elevator.

Secondly, it has essential oils known for their uplifting qualities, particularly the citrus oils. (It also contains ylang-ylang, tonka bean and patchouli).

And finally, the essence contains extracts of soothing linden tree; griffonia, a precursor of serotonin; and vitamin-rich watermelon. Now, hold the phone! I must confess to being ignorant of griffonia altogether, let alone as a precursor of serotonin. But a little detective work (thank you, Wikipedia!) revealed the following:

Serotonin (5HT) is a neurotransmitter (chemical messenger in the brain) influencing many aspects of our health, including mood;

SAD (Seasonal Affective Disorder), also known as winter depression, is a mood disorder;

One possibility is that SAD is related to a shortage of serotonin;

The small African bean, Griffonia simplicifolia, is thought to act as a precursor to serotonin. It supplies 5-HTP (5-hydroxytryptophan), an amino acid that easily crosses the blood-brain barrier where it converts to serotonin (5-hydroxytryptamine or 5-HT) in a natural process (source: Steven Schechter, N.D.)

The implication, of course, is that products containing griffonia can help raise serotonin levels, which in turn improve mood and thereby alleviate conditions of SAD.

medical disclaimer: Remember, I am not a medical doctor, nor do I play one on television. True, I am a dietitian, but that is another story.... For any medical questions or conditions, please check with your primary care professional!

Griffonia simplicifolia

Whether or not the Eau Ensoleillante has pharmacologically effective levels of griffonia is information I am not privy to. But the idea of adding pharmaceutically-helpful ingredients to fragrance is something I will be following with great interest. Meanwhile, I hope the Eau Ensoleillante smells as good as it looks!

Clarins image and notes source: OsMoz
Griffonia image source: www.europhyto.com

Sheer Stella

2007-03-01T10:21:00.000-08:00

Designer Stella McCartney has announced the launch of her new limited-edition fragrance for summer: Sheer contains notes of Bulgarian rose, peony, sugared lemon zest and green apple on a soft amber base.

Sheer will be available April 2007.

image source: aufeminin.com.

Oh, Tulip, Where is Thy Scent?

2007-02-28T15:33:00.000-08:00

I have always loved tulips -- planting tulip bulbs in the fall is an act of faith, and when they bloom in the spring I always breathe a sigh of relief that another winter has been successfully weathered. Besides that, tulips are just so beautiful to look at! But where is their scent? These brightly-colored, proud, long-stemmed flowers tempt us with promises of a gorgeous fragrance in line with their physical beauty, but, alas, they emit just the faintest scent of green (which is probably coming from the leaves anyway)!

What would a tulip fragrance smell like? I think it would be cheerful, sunny and bright, with a touch of humor and grace. And this is not just a rhetorical question. Clever perfumers have been creating fragrances from scentless flowers for many years. New York Times perfume critic Chandler Burr discusses this in a recent New York Times article, "Ghost Flowers."

He describes Flower by Kenzo as an example of a parfum based on the imaginary scent of the red poppy. The Kenzo website emphasizes this by stating, "The poppy is scentless, Kenzo invents its fragrance." Perfumer Alberto Morillas made the perfume using a natural violet leaf, essence of acacia flower, linalyl aetate, geraniol and citronellol (which are molecules found in rose and jasmine). He then made it smell "red" by adding synthetic and pure vanillas, heliotropin and benzyl acetate. The result, launched in 2000, is the beautiful Flower By Kenzo, a highly successful and popular fragrance.

Another beautiful flower having no smell is the camellia. Chanel's gifted perfumer, Jacques Polge, was assigned the task of making a perfume based on this flower, which was Coco's favorite. The result is the delightful Une Fleur de Chanel, based entirely on an imagined scent.

In light of that, shouldn't somebody be working on a lovely tulip eau de parfum?

Tulip Photo © 2007 The Perfume Bee

Chanel No. 19

2007-02-28T13:45:00.000-08:00

All this talk about Chanel's new releases and re-releases of previous fragrances got me to thinking about other Chanel favorites. My friend, M., recently shared her Chanel No. 19 eau de parfum with me, and I was struck anew by its green floral elegance. I have the eau de toilette version, which, while lovely, is like a sheer gossamer veil compared to the richness of the eau de parfum.

Henri Robert created N°19 especially for Coco Chanel, reflecting the qualities attributed to her by an admirer: witty, outspoken, supremely confident and intensely feminine. The fragrance was released to the world in 1971, just before her death. The number 19 celebrates Coco's birthday on the 19th of August. (She was clearly a Leo!) (chanel.com).

From the very first sniff, you know you're dealing with a classic. Its sharp, almost musty galbanum/neroli top notes are quickly followed by the dewy sweetness of hyacinth. The rich oakmoss/sandalwood/leathery accord lends it a tremendous depth and staying power. Its dry down has a honeyed-sweetness which is warm and woodsy without being cloying. I really like this vintage gem. It is the perfect daytime-into-evening fragrance.

Notes (from basenotes):

Top
Galbanum, Bergamot, Neroli, Hyacinth

Middle
Rose, Orris, Jasmine, Narcissus, Muguet, Ylang-Ylang

Base
Musk, Sandalwood, Oakmoss, Leather, Cedarwood

Galbanum illustration (from wikipedia.com).

Chanel No. 19 is available at saks.com and nordstrom.com.

Price: $87 for 3.5-oz. eau de toilette

(note: the eau de parfum strength is not readily available in the U.S. It is, to the best of my knowledge, still available in Paris).

Source for Chanel No. 19 image: nordstrom.com.

Better-Know-A-Niche Perfumery: Renée

2007-02-25T12:05:00.000-08:00

I never cease to be amazed by people who switch from a seemingly-unrelated career and go on to create a fabulous line of fragrances. It's almost like they have to get something out of their system (by something, I mean success in the corporate world) in order to form the foundation for the expression of their true passion of perfumery.

Such was the case with Australian perfumer Renée Griffith. Renée is the owner and founder of Renée, a niche perfumery offering a complete line of lovely perfumes and fragrance products. Renée was a former corporate real estate agent. While vacationing in Bali, she was captivated by the intoxicating fragrance of a tuberose bouquet in the hotel where she was staying. Inspired to recreate this scent, she studied a perfumery book and then took a correspondence course in modern perfumery. She successsfully recreated the scent of the tuberose bouquet in her first fragrance, Tuberose, which she formulated for her wedding. Since then, she has created a total of 7 fragrances, with a product line consisting of perfume, scented candles, body lotion and Lifestyle Scents for the home. The fragrances include:

Amber Seductive and sensual, Amber combines notes of earthy vetiver, musk and tolu with tea, ginger, cardamom and lime leaves for a rich, warm scent that is truly exotic and intensely captivating.

L'eau L'eau is the French word for Water. Sheer, clean and soft it’s a dreamy, soothing scent as pure as fresh spring water and ethereal as crystalline mountain air beckoning you to breathe it. Green leaves, air and water are sprinkled with nutmeg, spearmint and basil and cool mint resting on delicate rose and violet feuilles and dewy oakmoss gives a subtle “anytime” scent that is sparklingly refreshing.

Mediterranean Lily A sublime bounty of soft white blooms of waterlilies, lys blanc, gardenias and jasmine are interlaced with the freshness of italian bergamot and the sensuality of sandalwood transporting you to a magical Mediterranean garden on a sunny day when the warm summer breeze carries the scent of wild flowers through the air. Sophisticated and elegant, super feminine.

Snowpeach Dreamily delicious, Snowpeach is a luscious, mouth-watering blend of ripe peaches combined with notes of green leaves, delicate orange blossom. Zesty white grapefruit adds a hint of sparkle while seductive undertones of mulberry, hyacinth and musk emerge to further tantalize the senses.

Tuberose An exotic white floral of alluring and intoxicating tuberose flowers combined with freshness of bergamot, sweet orange blossom, seductive ylang ylang are laced with sensual undertones of musk, amber, moss and vanilla.

Musk Fresh top notes of italian bergamot, french lavender and sweet orange are blended with exotic spice and the freshness of woody rose de mai, but the real character of the fragrance lies in the base which embodies the warmth and sensuality of creamy musks, earthen woods, amber and the richness of tonka and vanilla.

Jasmine Jasmine begins with a sparkling blend of bergamot, mandarin, cassis and leafy vines combined with lusciously sweet french jasmine, exotic ylang ylang, tuberose and elegant bulgarian rose unveiling a smooth, mellow base of oakmoss, patchouli, vanilla, tonka, amber and a hint of musk.

My favorite fragrance in this collection is Tuberose. It is a warm, creamy blend of white flowers brightened by orange blossom and anchored with a musky/amber base. I also really like the Mediterranean Lily. It is light and bright and smells very much like a warm summer day. I personally found the Snowpeach to be a little too tutti-fruitti for my taste, but I could see it being very popular for teenage girls. The eau de parfum lasted about 2 hours on my skin, while the Jasmine perfume oil lasted slightly longer (about 3 hours).

Renée perfumes are packaged in chic white boxes tied with black grosgrain ribbon. They may be purchased online at renee.com.au.

Prices:
Parfum Vial Sampler Set - 5 x 1ml $7.95
Mini Fragrance Wardrobe - 5 x 10ml $75
Parfum - 30ml $59
Mini Parfum - 10ml $18.95
Perfume Oil (Jasmine and Musk only) 8ml - $45

image and fragrance notes source: renee.com.au

Chanel Delight: 31 rue Cambon

2007-02-23T10:37:00.000-08:00

Every one of these is as good as it gets, but one gave me an emotion I hadn’t felt for years. It was the thrill of feminine beauty, the pang of pain and longing you get in Rear Window when Grace Kelly breezes in, throws her coat on a chair and saunters over to give James Stewart a kiss....

These are the words used by renowned perfume expert Luca Turin to describe one of Chanel's six new Exclusif fragrances. Before I reveal which one he is talking about, I want to add that yes, that is what a good fragrance is supposed to do. Ideally, it will stir an emotion or bring up a memory in a way that is immediate and visceral. Kudos to Luca for his magical way of expressing such things.

The fragrance he is referring to is 31 Rue Cambon. As you may recall from my previous post, it is named after Chanel’s original boutique address in Paris. Luca considers it to be the best Chypre in thirty years.

I will defer to Mr. Turin about this fragrance being the best Chypre in thirty years. For my part, I will say that it is simply one of the best fragrances I have smelled in thirty years. With notes of iris, labdanum, jasmine, rose and sandalwood, this fragrance starts off with a poignantly sweet blast of dry iris. It gradually releases its floral heart notes and then seals the deal with the softness of sandalwood.

rue 31 Cambon is one of those fragrances that just keeps getting better and better with each passing hour. I find myself repeatedly smelling my wrist when I wear this scent, always delighted by its lovely character. It already has a place of honor on my list of favorites.

Available at Chanel boutiques. The telephone number for the East 57th street boutique in NYC is (212) 355-5050. They will gladly ship your order.

Price: $175 for 200 ml eau de toilette; $160 for 15 ml perfume.

Source for Rear Window image: amazon.com.

Sparks - Perfume Video

2007-02-21T19:29:00.001-08:00

Here is a video of the first single to be released from Sparks' 20th album, Hello Young Lovers. It's called "Perfume." It's hip and groovy, like you, dear readers, and will no doubt make you nostalgic for perfumes you haven't thought of in years! Enjoy!

Les Caprices de Lolita: Lolita Lempicka Launches 3 New Scents

2007-02-20T10:45:00.000-08:00

It has been 10 years since the design house Lolita Lempicka launched its first fragrance, Lolita Lempicka, the highly successful blend of vanilla, liquorice, greens, florals and musk. To celebrate this tenth anniversary, Lolita Lempicka has created a trio of three new fragrances: "Les Caprices de Lolita" (the Whims of Lolita). The collection includes Violette, a subtle, modern violet fragrance; Réglisse, with notes of liquorice and patchouli; and Amarena, containing notes of sugary almond and white musks. The fragrances are designed to be worn alone or layered in combination.

"Les Caprices de Lolita" will be available in March 2007.

Price: 125 € for the box set, which includes a flacon of Lolita Limpicka 50-ml Eau de Parfum spray , and one 20-ml vaporizer bottle of each Caprice: Violet, Réglisse, and Amarena.

image and information source: aufeminin.com.

Better-Know-A-Niche Perfumery: elizabethW

2007-02-18T19:15:00.000-08:00

I am noticing an interesting trend in the world of niche perfumery. While once concentrated in French and British locales, there are an increasing number of top-notch niche perfumeries arising in the USA. Many of these are located on the West coast, particularly in California and Oregon.

One such perfumery is elizabethW, located in San Francisco, California. Founder Albert E. Wightman was deeply influenced by his dynamic and free-spirited great-grandmother, Elizabeth, for whom the line is named. He was also influenced by the scent of fresh flowers and herbs he found on Elizabeth's western ranch during his youth. With his background in architecture, Albert applied his appreciation for careful design to the creation of his perfume line. This aesthetic is reflected in the clean lines and modern packaging of his fragrance, skin care, and home fragrance products.

The elizabethW collections are, in Albert's words,

clean, simple, sophisticated, elegant, and totally original. They reflect an emphasis on quality and beauty, valuable lessons passed down through the generations from Elizabeth Wightman, my great grandmother.

The Eau de Parfum collection consists of 10 fragrances, each built around a dominant note. While each stands on its own, the fragrances readily lend themselves to layering in order to create one's own unique blend.

Here are the fragrances, in alphabetical order:

CITRUS VERVAIN: Refreshing, embracing, awakening. Extracts of star ruby grapefruit, mandarin, and lime peel entwine with lemon scented verbena leaves.

LAVENDER: Herbal, meditative, soothing. Dominant lavender notes blend with other herbaceous and woody tones in this distinctly harmonious scent.

LEAVES: Fresh, evocative, clean. A soft, woody base of Atlas cedar and sandalwood balance amber with green, leafy top notes.

LILAC: Romantic, fresh, intensely floral. A single note from boughs of spring-time lilacs brightened with subtle hints of jasmine, neroli, and freesia.

MAGNOLIA: Soft, feminine, sensual. White magnolia petals deepened with saffron and sandalwood, mingle with mimosa and gardenia.

NEROLI CHAMOMILE: Nurturing, tranquil, softly soothing. A floral bouquet of neroli, ylang ylang and iris extracts, enlivened by the rich balsamic, freshly herbal notes and wild roses enhanced with hawthorn.

ROSE: Irresistible, passionate, sophisticated. Moist green notes and wild roses enhanced with hawthorn.

SWEET TEA: Gracious, spirited, elegant. Enticing oriental black teas, juicy fresh Amalfi lemons, and the sweetness of almond honey.

TUBEROSE: Lasting floral, compelling, a classic bouquet. A richly sweet, heady aroma, accented by gardenia, jasmine, amber, and orange flower.

VETIVER: Earthy, woody, confident. An original creation of heavy vetiver, balanced with light, citrus tones and green tints of bergamot from peels of nearly ripe fruit.

I find the entire collection to be light, beautiful and easily wearable. My top three picks are Magnolia, a luscious white floral (think: daytime garden party); Tuberose, a rich, classic floral (think: puttin' on the Ritz!); and Sweet Tea, a warm, tea-scented fragrance with a little kick of lemon (think: laid-back Saturday afternoon). I like that that this collection has a wide range of scents, from leafy green Leaves to light citrus Citrus Vervain to full-on floral Rose so that there is bound to be something for everyone.

The line is available in select boutiques and online at the elizabethW website.

Price: Full-size 2-oz. Eau de Parfum spray: $35; Travel-size 1/2-oz. Eau de Parfum spray: $20.

Golden Gate Bridge image source: daniel steger at openphoto.net
perfume image source: elizabethW

Fragrance Launch: Theo Fennell Scent

2007-02-17T10:00:00.000-08:00

"It's a proper, old-fashioned heavy scent, redolent of evenings of gorgeousness, luxury, decadence and naughtiness," said Fennell. (from wwd.com)

These are the words used by jewelry designer Theo Fennell to describe his debut fragrance, Theo Fennell Scent, which launched in London this month.

Blended by Christophe Laudamiel of International Flavors & Fragrances, its chypre oriental juice comprises top notes of saffron, cardamom, lily, rose and orchid. At its heart are jasmine sambac, orange flower, cumin and cinnamon notes, while base notes include patchouli, tonka bean, labdanum, sandalwood and benzoin.

...For Scent's bottle, Fennell, who also designs silverware, plumbed for a heavy glass orb featuring a seal with the brand's logo. "It is designed to be very simple and very elegant on a woman's dressing table or wherever she performs her ablutions," said Fennell. "It's sophisticated, bold and sexy."

Scent initially will be available exclusively at Fennell's London flagship and Harrods department store for six months. It will then be released internationally.

Price: 75ml eau de parfum spray: £68 ($134 at current exchange rates).

image and information source: wwd.com.

Better-Know-A-Niche Perfumery: Téo Cabanel

2007-02-15T19:32:00.000-08:00

My great love in writing this blog is discovering new (to me) niche perfumeries and sharing them with my readers. Today I will be discussing the French niche perfumery, Téo Cabanel.

The Cabanel company was founded in Algiers around 1893 by a doctor/chemist who created essences for Colognes. The House moved to Paris in 1908, where it became the preferred perfumery of the Duchess of Windsor. Fast-forward to this century, and the House has reasserted itself as a creator of luxurious perfumes made with the finest natural elements. Master perfumer Jean-Francois Latty is the nose behind all three of the fragrances, two of which were launched in 2006.

Julia is a daytime fragrance with top notes of Sicilian Madarin, Rhubarb Greens and Blackcurrant; heart notes of Jasmine, Hyacinth and Violet; and base notes of Sandalwood, Incense, Citrus, Raspberry and Musk.

Oha is an elegant evening fragrance with top notes of Bergamot and Tea; heart notes of Bulgarian and Moroccan Roses, Egyptian Jasmine and Guatemalan Cardamone; and base notes of Vanilla, Iris, Tonka Bean, Exotic Woods and White Musk.

The house's newest fragrance, Alahine, will be launched this spring. It is a sweet-ambery fragrance inspired by Oriental elegance and Persian palaces. It contains top notes of Bergamot and Lavender; heart note of Bulgarian rose; and base notes of Vanilla, Pepper Tree, Iris, Benzoin and Patchouli.

These fragrances are (or soon will be) available at henri bendel (telephone 800.423.6335). They are also available at Galeries Lafayette.

Price: $180 perfume (15ml); $135 EDP spray (100ml); $96 EDP spray (50 ml).

For more information, please see Téo Cabanel.

image source: osmoz
information source: Téo Cabanel and Osmoz.

Happy Valentine's Day from The Perfume Bee!!!

2007-02-13T21:40:00.000-08:00

I want to wish all of you a happy and well-scented Valentine's Day! In honor of this romantic day, I will be breaking from tradition and reviewing a .... pomegranate. Specifically, I am referring to Santa Maria Novella's Terra Cotta Pomegranate. As you may know, the pomegranate was used as a symbol of fertility in ancient times. To me, it symbolizes infinite possibility as represented by the scores of ruby-red seeds contained within.

This fist-sized clay orb is carefully made by hand and then fired in a kiln until it is half-baked. Then it is immersed in a tub of pomegranate oil essence for a full week, and then fired to completion. This process seals the fragrance inside the pomegranate with the scent lasting 9-12 months.

I had no idea pomegranate oil was so sweet and powdery. The terra cotta pomegranate emits a soft, fruity smell redolent of an autumn day in the country. It is sitting on my desk now, not unlike a pet rock, quietly releasing its fragrance. I like the fact it requires no maintenance and no candles, matches or electricity. It's refreshingly low tech and quite pleasant to look at.

The SMN Terra Cotta Pomegranate costs $55 and can be purchased in the Santa Maria Novella Los Angeles store (a Sniffa LA destination where we received the royal treatment) and SMN New York City store or online.

Top image: Dance at Bougiva (1883) by Pierre-Auguste Renoir; The Museum of Fine Arts at Boston; source: ibiblio.org.

Bottom image: Photo of terra cotta pomegranate © The Perfume Bee.

Los Angeles Sniffapalooza at Apothia 2007

2007-02-12T16:38:00.000-08:00

Karen Adams, moi, and Karen Dubin at LA Sniffapalooza 2007

This picture shows me standing with Sniffapalooza founder Karen Dubin (to my left) and her Sniffa collaborator, Karen Adams. The photo was snapped after more than 10 hours of sniffing perfume, talking about perfume, listening to talks about perfume, shopping for perfume, and sniffing more perfume. I, for one, was feeling a bit rummy by this point. But all fatigue aside, the LA Sniffapalooza West Coast Premiere was a pure slice of heaven!

Here is what the day looked like: Imagine being surrounded by over fifty people with a common passion for perfume, bare-wrists extended and perfume testers at the ready! Now add in a lovely breakfast at Mauro's Cafe at Fred Segal Melrose while a series of guest speakers discuss everything from making niche perfumes to the genesis of a top-selling fragrance to the use of fragrance to scent venues (think: the aroma of chocolate wafting through the theater for the premier of "Charlie and the Chocolate Factory).

Follow this with shopping and sniffing at Ron Robinson's wonderful Apothia, lunch at Chocolat with a fragrance workshop presented by Sarah Horowitz-Thran (founder of Creative Scentualizations), shopping and sniffing at the darling Santa Maria Novella boutique, and High Tea at Chado Tea Room with guest speakers (Miryana Babic of i Profume di Firenze; Adam Eastwood, co-founder of Luckyscent.com; and Marlen Harrison, founder of Perfumecritic.com).

Top off this perfect day with a private reception at the Palmetto Boutique where Miryana Babic and her sweet mother, Rosie, presented the i Profume de Firenze line. As an added bonus, enjoy the expert touch-up from professional make-up artist Fredericke Grillitz of i.q. beauty who was on-site to help revive our flagging complexions. (If I may digress just a moment... her Luminous eye cream is incredible! A few well-placed dabs of this gel- based cream under my eyes was like a refreshing mini-facial. Perhaps it has something to do with the crushed pearls it contains. I don't know, but I do know it made my face feel positively "glowy.")

Add all this up, and you have the recipe for one fragrantly fabulous day!

The best part (I know you're expecting me to say the goodie bags -- well, yes, they were wonderful, but they're not even the best part) of the whole Sniffapalooza was being with like-minded "perfume people." Let's face it, sometimes we perfume-lovers can feel a bit isolated when our friends and loved ones look at us with a mix of pity and perplexity as we proudly show them our most recent fragrant discovery. So for me, the highlight of the day was meeting new perfume-loving friends and being able to spend time discussing the nuances of individual fragrances without seeing eyes rolled up in boredom. And it was an absolute pleasure to meet people whom I've only known through email correspondence and as readers of The Perfume Bee. Putting names with faces really brought it all together for me.

I will talk more about the day's individual speakers and perfume discoveries in future posts. For now, I leave you with a few more pictures from the day. And, if you're so inclined, mark your calendars for the Spring Sniffapalooza in New York City happening March 31-April 1st. You can check out their website for more information.

Karen Dubin and Ron Robinson at Apothia

Sarah Horowitz-Thran at Chocolat

Miryana Babic at Palmetto

Christine, Eliza and Marlen at Palmetto

Cute little visitor at Santa Maria Novella

photos © The Perfume Bee

The Scent Bar: A Perfume-Lover's Delight!

2007-02-09T19:50:00.000-08:00

I arrived in Los Angeles early today for the first-ever LA Sniffapalooza. Since the event doesn't officially begin until tomorrow, this gave me time to make a beeline to The Scent Bar, the brick-and-mortar store of luckyscent.com. When I say beeline, I mean beeline as in: drive a rental car all over LA for two hours looking for 8327 Beverly Blvd. (Beverly Blvd. is not the same as Beverly Lane. Who knew?!?)

Long story short, I made it to my destination and I am happy to say it was well worth the effort. The sales associate, Angela, was extremely knowledgeable and very friendly. She was also unstintingly gracious as I requested bottle after bottle of fragrance to test. The counter was littered with literally dozens of fragrant test strips by the time I finished.

The collection of niche fragrances in this store is beyond wonderful. Even though the in-store collection represents only a partial selection of luckyscent.com's total collection, it offers a very representative sample of their wide-reaching yet carefully-selected range. Here are just a few of the lines I sampled: Isabey; Keiko Mecheri; La Base; 10 Corso Como; Parfum d'Empire; Sage EDTs; Nanadebary; Montale; People of the Labyrinths; LesNez;

So of all of these, which one did I consider most full-bottle worthy?

10 Corso Como
This beautiful, incensey fragrance is a departure from my usual light sparkling florals. It is a very warm, woodsy scent starting off with a big dose of delicious sandalwood and frankincense. Soon, a beautiful combination of rose and geranium peek through. Other notes include musk, vetiver and Malay oud wood oil. This is a rich, complex scent with (so far) 3+ hours of staying power.

Cost: $60/ 50 ml eau de parfum at luckyscent.com.

Tomorrow I will be Sniffapaloozing from 8:30 am until 7:00 pm. Stay tuned for a full report!

images source: luckyscent.com

Valentine's Day Fragrance: Gift with a Conscience...

2007-02-08T21:36:00.000-08:00

photo source: the body shop

With Valentine's Day just around the corner, our thoughts naturally turn toward the obvious: gifting our loved ones with a beautiful new fragrance. When such gifting can be combined with a good cause, so much the better. One such example is The Body Shop's new limited edition Rougeberry MTV fragrance. The Body Shop has teamed up with MTV to launch the 'Stop HIV: Spray to Change Attitudes' campaign.

Together we are working to raise awareness amongst young people about HIV and AIDS, and raise funds for MTV's Staying Alive Foundation, who support grass-roots charities around the world to help raise awareness and educating young people about HIV and AIDS. Together we've produced a Limited Edition bottle of our sparkling new Rougeberry fragrance. Proceeds from the sale of every Limited Edition bottle go to the Staying Alive Foundation. (source: the body shop international).

Rougeberry contains:

Top Notes: raspberry, tangerine and apple

Middle Notes: heliotrope, rose, violet and peach

Base Notes: musk, amber, cedarwood, sandalwood, vanilla and sugared almond

Cost: 1 fl-oz. eau de toilette Rougeberry MTV $16

To know more about the Staying Alive Foundation, please see their website.

Coco Chanel is Inspiration for Six New Fragrances: Les Exclusifs

2007-02-07T12:50:00.000-08:00

"A women who doesn't wear perfume has no future". -- Coco Chanel

Leave it to Coco to tell it like it is!

Coco Chanel's colorful and fascinating life provides the inspiration for the six new fragrances being launched by Chanel this month. Les Exclusifs are based on the things and places beloved by Mlle. Chanel. Created by Chanel perfumer Jacques Polge, these fragrances sound very intriguing. In an interview in The Australian, Christopher Sheldrake (deputy perfumer at Chanel) states, "Jacques Polge wanted to create something original and different." The article continues:

Each new fragrance balances innovation with historical inspiration, referencing the spirit and history of Mademoiselle Gabrielle (Coco) Chanel, and places, houses and furnishings that were important to her. Polge and Sheldrake have worked with exceptional and exclusive raw ingredients, including some not often used by the perfume industry, such as ambrette seed and iris pallida, both rare and low-yield natural materials.

The six fragrances are:

28 La Pausa, a powdery floral named for Coco's estate on the French Riviera;

31 Rue Cambon, named for Coco's couture atelier, is a spicy, patchouli-based scent with notes of jasmine and rose;

No. 18, named for the address of the Chanel jewelry boutique on Place Vendôme, has a heart note of ambrette seed;

Coromandel, refers to the Chinese screens that adorned her Paris apartments. It is a blend of amber and wood with a hint of creamy vanilla;

Bel Respiro, named for Coco's first country house, has green, stemmy notes;

Eau de Cologne, which is a unisex, neroli oil-based fragrance with the addition of musk, vetiver and green notes.

Chanel is also re-launching four older scents which have been hard to obtain in recent years: Bois des Iles (woodsy); Cuir de Russie (leathery); No. 22 (like a lighter version of No. 5); and Gardénia (a bright floral).

The fragrances will be available at Chanel Boutiques and Bergdorf Goodman February 12th.

Cost: $175/ 100 ml eau de toilette.

photo source: fashiontomorrow.com
quote source: wikiquote.org
fragrance descriptions source: W Magazine

Better-Know-A-Nose: Stéphanie de Saint Aignan and Céline Ellena

2007-02-05T20:00:00.000-08:00

In a recent posting (here), we talked about the 2007 fragrance collection of designer Stéphanie de Saint Aignan. Osmoz features a terrific interview with de Saint Aignan in its series on "up and coming fragrance designers."

...I wanted to design fragrances that have something to say, ones whose goal isn't to go mass market, but exclusive distribution. Fragrances for aesthetes, people who stand out in a crowd, those rare people who don't wear a brand, but a fragrance they maintain a relationship with. (Read the rest of the Osmoz interview
here).

The Osmoz series also interviews perfumer Céline Ellena, of The Different Company. When asked about her influences as a designer, she replies,

I would say there's a bit of a joyful mess that I dip into depending on my mood! I don't have one particular reference, nor school of thought. On the other hand, I profess boundless love for human beings. I'm quite curious, and probably a bit of a voyeur, too... (Read the rest of the interview here).

To read my review of The Different Company, please see this posting.

I find the "noses" behind the fragrances as interesting as the fragrances themselves. The motivation and creative inspiration for each scent is a story unto itself. Just knowing a bit about the person behind the fragrance makes wearing the scent an even richer experience.

photo source: Michael Jastremski at openphoto.net

Perfume & Technology: Smell Phones!

2007-02-04T19:48:00.000-08:00

Move over cell phones. Now there are smell phones! Two major cell phone manufacturers have announced the creation of cell phones which are capable of emitting fragrances.

Japan's top wireless operator, NTT DoCoMo, recently described the Sony Ericsson SO703i,

which comes with scented sheets designed to relax the users while making calls. The phone offers nine aroma choices for the consumer, each coupled with a different panel design. (from news.zdnet.com; photo source: asia.cnet.com).

This phone will initially be available only in Japan.

Meanwhile, Hyundai (source: phoneyworld) has also released a perfume phone: the Hyundai MP 280. It, too, has changeable cover panels in a variety of colors.

This phone differs from the Sony model in that you can actually add perfume to it so that each time you open the phone to make or receive a call, the scent is released. Further, it is possible to refill the perfume receptacle once the effect starts to decrease with the handy syringe that comes with the phone.

The butterfly in the center of the phone is where you "inject" the perfume into the handset. About 2 drops of the scent are enough to last about 8 hours.

The phone will go on sale in China for about 9900 yuan (around 1,225.00 USD).

Can smell tones be far behind?

Better-Know-a-Niche Perfumery: Tom Ford's Private Blend Fragrance Collection

2007-02-03T10:30:00.000-08:00

Though technically not a niche perfumer, the release of designer Tom Ford's new collection of 12 exquisite fragrances is about to put him into that category. Private Blend consists of a dozen unique scents designed to appeal to both women and men. Made from very fine and expensive ingredients, they include:

Amber Absolute

Noir de Noir

Velvet Gardenia

Black Violet

Tobacco Vanille

Oud Wood

Purple Patchouli

Bois Rouge

Japan Noir

Neroli Portofino

Tuscan Leather

Moss Breches

In wwd.com, Ford points out that "these are fully developed fragrances, not one-note products."

Purple Patchouli is "sort of Sixties, with orchid, black leather and amber," said Ford. "Bois Rouge has red cedarwood; Noir de Noir is a chypre oriental with patchouli and tree moss; Moss Breches is this really rare moss, and Tobacco Vanille smells like pipe tobacco..."

This collection is scheduled to launch with the opening of Ford's new Manhattan store in Spring 2007 (located at Madison & 70th Street). Each scent will be available in a 1.7-oz. eau de parfum spray for $165 and an 8.3-oz. eau de parfum decanter for $450.

info and photo source: wwd.com; photo by John Aquino

New: Edith Piaf Fragrance and Film...

2007-02-01T17:35:00.000-08:00

In my mind, Edith Piaf's hauntingly beautiful voice epitomizes the mystery and magic of all that is French. I love listening to my Éternelle cd and I invariably get misty-eyed when she sings her most well-known song, La Vie en Rose. So I was thrilled to learn that 1) a new movie about her life is being released this month; and 2) Balmain has created a new perfume to celebrate the opening of this film.

Here is a clip of Edith singing this song on Youtube.com

La Vie en Rose is a biopic film starring Marion Cotillard and co-starring Gerard Depardieu, Sylvie Testud and Emmanuelle Seigner. The film is directed by french filmmaker Olivier Dahan and will premiere at the 57th Berlin Film Festival later this month.

In the U.S., the film will be called, La Môme, which refers to Piaf's nickname, La Môme Piaf, The Sparrow Kid. She was quite a petite woman, only 4 feet, 8 inches tall (142 cm), and she took on the name Piaf (sparrow) as her stage name (from wikipedia). The film is slated for a 2007 release in the U.S., with no opening date set yet.
Here is a clip from the new movie.

The new fragrance by Balmain is also named La Môme. It is a floral-oriental scent containing:

Top notes: May Rose, Freesia and Pink Bay;

Heart notes: Damask Rose, Violet, Raspberry and Myrrh;

Base notes:

It will be available exclusively at Marionnaud parfumeries. Cost: 41.40 euros/50 ml eau de parfum; 59.20 euros/100 ml eau de parfum.

edith piaf black/white photo source: Creative commons

La Mome movie poster source: allocine.fr

Fragrance image source: aufeminin.com

Fragrance Review: Perfect Bliss Perfume Oil

2007-01-31T21:35:00.000-08:00

I seem to be on a roll with perfume oils. Today I have been enjoying the scent of a light and lovely perfume oil named, happily, Perfect Bliss. Perfumer Sarah Horowitz-Thran created this fragrance to reflect the mesmerizing scent of the floral arrangements at her November 2002 wedding.

This fragrance features:

top notes of blood orange, mango, and papaya

a middle accord of gardenia, rose, tuberose, and lily

and base notes of vanilla, patchouli, cedar and musk

Wearing this fragrance is like going on a tropical mini-vacation. Just closing my eyes and sniffing, I could practically hear the sounds of the island birds chirping and the palm trees whispering in the breeze!

The top notes give off a quick fruity blast, followed by the sweet delicacy of the white flowers. The soft musk/woodsy accord gives it a solid depth. My only complaint is that this fragrance disappeared far too quickly. I was hopeful that being oil-based, rather than alcohol-based, it might linger for hours. This was not the case. I had to reapply several times throughout the day to keep it detectable on my skin. Having said that, this would be a good fragrance to wear on a hot summer day, or when you just want to be carried away on a dream of Tahitian flowers!

This perfume oil is available at fragrances and more. Cost: $40 for 1/8 oz roll-on.

photo source: fragrances and more

Fragrance Review: Love N.1 Perfume Oil

2007-01-30T19:44:00.000-08:00

I love fine fragraces and spritz them on with carefree abandon. However, in my heart-of-hearts, I prefer all natural ingredients whenever possible. Yes, I'm one of those "granola" mothers who steamed organic kale leaves and pureed them for my children's dinners when they were babies. I am a big fan of organic products, and I consider the use of organic ingredients in fragrances to be a definite "plus."

So I am happy to review a lovely perfume oil handcrafted of essential oils in a base of organic jojoba oil. Love No.1 is part of the Soul Collection (Love N.1, Heart N.2, Soul N.3) created by perfumer Andrea Kane.

It is comprised of Blood Orange, Tuberose, Pink Lotus, Turkish Rose, Cocoa Absolute, Cassia, Sandalwood, Patchouli, and Vanilla.

The fragrance opens with a strong patchouli/sandalwood accord. After a few minutes, the light tuberose and lotus notes come floating up to the surface. Finally, the rose and cocoa notes hit their stride, balanced with a touch of vanilla. This fragrance has an overall sweet, warm and woodsy character. The drydown lasted about two hours, which on my skin is considered a relatively long time.

The sleek bottle is made by Verreries Brosse, the makers of the iconic Chanel No. 5 flacon.

This fragrance is available online at theorganicbeautyexpert

Cost: Parfum Oil (1/4 oz. $110), Eau de Parfum spray (2 oz. $120); Body Oil (6.7 oz. $85); and Whipped Body Butter (8.5 oz. $65).

image source: theorganicbeautyexpert

Jon Bon Jovi and Kenneth Cole: Fragrance to Fight Homelessness

2007-01-30T09:08:00.000-08:00

image source: Nordstrom

Singer Jon Bon Jovi and designer Kenneth Cole have teamed up to help fight homelessness. They have pledged that a portion of the proceeds from the sales of R.S.V.P., the new Kenneth Cole men's fragrance manufactured by Coty Inc., will be donated to three charities that aim to combat homelessness. They include:

Habitat for Humanity, which seeks to eliminate poverty housing and homelessness from the world, and to make decent shelter a matter of conscience and action;

HELP USA, whose aim is to empower the homeless and others in need to become and remain self-reliant; and

The Philadelphia Soul Charitable Foundation, which exists to combat issues that force families and individuals into economic despair through the creation of programs and partnerships that break the cycle of poverty and homelessness.

R.S.V.P. is a woody/spicy fragrance consisting of (from osmoz.com):

Top notes: Lavender, Grapefruit, Pepper, Wet Grass

Middle notes: Iris, Orchid, Cedarwood

Base notes: Sandalwood, Patchouli, Vetiver, Soft Cashmere

R.S.V.P. is available at Nordstrom: Eau de Toilette 1.7 oz. ($45) and 3.4 oz ($59.50); After Shave Balm 3.4 oz ($45); After Shave Splash 3.4 oz ($45); and Deodorant 2.6 oz ($16).

Kudos, Jon and Kenneth!

End of Parisian Tour

2007-01-28T21:21:00.000-08:00

And now we come to the end of our Parisian perfume journey. I hope you've enjoyed this forray into the wonderful world of French fragrances as much as I have enjoyed writing about it!

I would love to hear about your favorite perfume destinations not included in this itinerary. Your suggestions and ideas will help me plan my next journey! And for those of you who want more practical "nuts-and-bolts" details about visiting parfumeries in Paris, I have good news!

I have written an article titled "The Perfumer-Lovers' Guide to Paris" which will appear in Marlen Harrison's restyled online magazine PerfumeCritic.com. I am delighted to be one of PerfumeCritic's writers, and the new magazine-style format of PerfumeCritic.com is slated to debut this Thursday, Febuary 1st. Be sure to check it out!

Of course, I will continue to buzz merrily away at The Perfume Bee and look forward to keeping you apprised of all the latest in niche perfumery.

photo: 20th century perfume organ, Fragonard Museum, Paris

photo credit: Christine Pierce

Niche Perfumery in the News

2007-01-27T09:14:00.000-08:00

Yesterday’s online issue of wwd.com, often referred to as “the beauty bible” for beauty and fashion insiders, features an article about the increasing popularity of niche fragrances. Hip readers of The Perfume Bee (that means you!) already know that niche perfumery is “where it’s at!” It is nice to see this recognition in the mainstream fashion industry.

Included in the article is an interview with Sniffapalooza’s founder, Karen Dubin. She points out that when given the opportunity to smell niche fragrances, customers will notice the difference in sophistication between niche scents and more commercial scents. “People,” she adds, “are looking beyond department stores to find something really special.” You go, Karen!

Better-Know-A-Niche Perfumery: Stéphanie de Saint-Aignan

2007-01-26T06:00:00.000-08:00

Le Printemps de la Beauté is a treasure trove of wonderful designer and niche perfumes. Located on the Boulevard Hausmann near the Opèa, this perfume department in one of Paris’ grand old department stores is a must-visit for perfume fanatics such as myself.

One of these niche brands is from the designer Stéphanie de Saint-Aignan. Her 2007 collection features seven unique eaux de toilette, each with its own story. She likens her yearly collection of perfumes to the annual collections of new dresses or jewelry made by designers.

Here they are:

Amande Honorable (feminine) Floral/woodsy musk; linden blossom, sugared almond, and notes of clean linen and musk

Berbériades (feminine) Spicy/Oriental; Citrus fruit top notes, jasmine, wood, oriental notes and spices

Embruns d'Ambre (feminine) Floral aquatic; aquatic notes, solar notes, and ambergris

(side note: while my French is passable, I often need help in fine-tuning translations of perfume ingredients. One of my teenaged sons, having worked his way through a few years of high school Spanish, introduced me to the freetranslation.com website. It is very helpful for simple words, but the translation of longer sentences can be confusing, if not downright hilarious. For instance, this is the translation I received for the ingredients in Embruns d'Ambre:

A fragrance mixing the odor océane to the one of the gray amber that floats to the surface of the oceans. This is a low-fat, foamed amber…..!?!!
Mmm, low-fat foamy amber... But I digress…

Le Pot aux Roses (feminine) Floral rose-violet; green top notes, violet and rose middle notes on a white musk and powder base.

Tobacco Mucho (masculine) Woody/aromatic; notes of frosted lemon; burned wood; and tobacco leaves.

Un Thé au Sahara (feminine) Citrus/aromatic; mint; tea; spices; precious woods

Voleur de Ciels (masculine) Woody/chypre; mint, jasmine, gasoline, leather

Of the seven, I chose Voleur de Ciels to purchase. I was in a bit of a hurry, which is never a good thing when buying fragrance. It was also very hot and crowded in the department store at the time of my selection. I was probably hungry, too. And the list of perfume notes was not readily available to me. Which is a roundabout way of admitting that I made a mistake…

When I first applied it, all I could smell were the mint and jasmine notes, which were quite nice. But the dry down awhile later left me surprised and a little stunned. When I finally discovered the notes, I had to laugh. Really, gasoline, on moi? It is described as smelling both of a man and a plane. And here’s the kicker: of all the fragrances I tested in Paris, this one has the longest staying power, hands-down. Truly, it lasts hours and hours, which is all the more devastating because fragrances typically last about 15 minutes on me.

In retrospect, I should have bought the Le Pot aux Roses. It was light and flowery with just the right amount of powder. These fragrances are available in Paris at Printemps de la Beauté. Cost: 60 euros for 30 ml eau de toilette; 80 euros for 50 ml. For more information, please go to the Printemps website.

UPDATE: The new Parisian perfume boutique, Evody, also carries Stéphanie de Saint-Aignan. The address is 63 rue Saint-André des Arts 75006 Paris. Telephone is: 01 55 42 06 54

source of perfume descriptions: French Osmoz

photo credit: Christine Pierce

Better-Know-A-Niche Perfumery: Hermès Perfume

2007-01-24T06:00:00.000-08:00

Nearing the end of my Parisian perfume journey, I came to one of the most well-known fashion addresses in the city: 24 rue faubourg-St. Honore, home of the Hermès flagship store. While it is better known for its luxury handbags and silk scarves, Hermès also has a rich history of creating beautiful perfumes. The fragrances are located on the ground floor right next to the scarves. I must say, the scarf department was wild! There were sales associates lined up along one side of the long counter, with seas of beautifully colored scarves on the counters in front of them. Lined up on the other side were droves of eager customers waiting to choose their silken treasures! It was very high energy and chaotic!

Next to that, the perfume department was like the calm in the eye of the hurricane! There was just one sales associate, and a great display of testers so one could, if one were so inclined, spritz happily to one's heart's content. Which is exactly what I did! The Hermès classics were all present and accounted for: the green floral Amazone; the floral woodsy Caleche; and the rich amber floral 24 Faubourg.

But the main focus of my attention was The Hermessence Collection.

The Hermessence Collection is Hermès' contribution to niche perfumery and is available only in select Hermes boutiques. Launched in 2004, this line currently has six beautiful fragrances created by master perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena. They include:

Rose Ikebana, a blend of rose petals and crisp rhubarb; peony; pink peppercorns, grapefruit, vanilla and honey;

Ambre Narguilé, combining honey and amber with benzoin, labdanum, vanilla, caramel, sugar, tonka beans and sesame seeds;

Poivre Samarcande, pepper softened with mellow wood and musk

Vétiver Tonka, the strength of vetiver and the smoothness of hazelnut blended with neroli, bergamot, and tonka;

Osmanthe Yunnan, a soft floral blend with tea, osmanthus flower; orange; freesia and apricot

and the latest, Paprika Brasil, combining the essence of capsicum with the flames of brazil woods, spices and cloves.

These are available in 100 ml bottles ($175); the luxury version of 100 ml in a leather case ($420), and in Discovery Sets of 4 15-ml bottles for $120. The predetermined "variety" Discovery Set features the first four fragrances only: Rose Ikebana, Ambre Narguilé, Poivre Samarcande, and Vétiver Tonka. You may also purchase the Discovery Set with four bottles of the same fragrance of your choice.

My personal favorite in this collection is Osmanthe Yunnan. I am growing increasingly partial to the osmanthus flower and when blended with another of my favorites, freesia, it is a real delight. This fragrance also lasts an extremely long time on my skin, especially for an eau de toilette (well over 8 hours).

For more information, please see the Hermès website or telephone the NYC boutique: 212.751.3181.

photo credits: Christine Pierce

The House of Caron

2007-01-22T16:25:00.000-08:00

"Bright," "sparkling," "crystalline," and "gemlike" are just some of the words that come flooding to my mind when I think of the Caron boutique. Located on the stately Avenue Montaigne in the 8th arrondissement, this is a true jewel-box of a store. Walking into this parfumerie reminds me of entering the glittering Hall of Mirrors at Versailles, albeit on a much smaller scale! The company was founded in 1904 by perfumer Ernest Daltroff and has been creating luxury fragrances for the last century.

This picture shows Caron's trademark crystal fountains. They are filled with the company's beautiful haute perfumes. As you can see, they are lovely to behold.

My favorite perfume from the crystal flacons is Tubéreuse. This is Caron's newest “fountain” creation, created by in-house perfumer Richard Fraysse in 2003. As its name suggests, it is a soliflore based on the beautiful tuberose flower. It has top notes of Indian tuberose; middle notes of jasmine, peach and apricot; and a warm vanilla base. It dries down to a very beautiful, elegant finish. There are 13 fountain fragrances, which may be purchased in Caron boutiques in Paris. Cost of Tubéreuse: 100 euro/50 ml eau de parfum.

For more information, visit the Caron website. There is also a Caron boutique in New York City, located on Madison Avenue between 61st and 62nd streets, telephone 212.319.4888.

photo credits: Christine Pierce

Coach to Launch Its First Fragrance in March

2007-01-21T10:05:00.000-08:00

We take a break from our Parisian perfume travelogue to share an announcement from Coach. This iconic leather goods manufacturer has created its first fragrance, Coach. Produced by a division of Estee Lauder Cos. in cooperation with Firmenich, this scent is slated to be launched in March and will be available exclusively in Coach's 220 U.S. retail stores.

According to wwd.com,"the scent has top notes of tart green mandarin, guava, violet petals and water lily; a heart of genet flower, honey, orange flower, mimosa and jasmine, and a drydown of sandalwood, amber wood and vanilla."

The collection will consist of a 1.7-oz. eau de parfum spray for $68, an 8-ml. purse spray, $42, and a 0.15-oz. solid perfume, $40.

photo image: Coach purse spray;
photo credit: Robert Mitra

The House of Guerlain

2007-01-19T06:00:00.000-08:00

House of Guerlain, 68 Ave des Champs Elysées

Today I am going to describe my visit to La Maison Guerlain (The House of Guerlain). Going there is like making a pilgrimage to the Mother Ship of haute parfumerie. Located on the expansive Avenue des Champs-Élysées, this quintessentially Parisian boutique is just what one might picture when thinking of a French parfumerie. It is charming, genteel, and refined. Walking through the door is like stepping back in time, to the lovely Belle Époche era of the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

The Belle Époche period was a golden era of beauty, creativity, and peace in Europe. On the cultural scene, the arrival of the cancan, cabaret and the cinema livened things up. Meanwhile, the art world was swept away by the new styles of Impressionism and Art Nouveau.

Built in 1914, this boutique captures the essence of that time. The second floor, with its enormous plate glass windows looking out at the ever-changing street scene below, is a perfume-lover's haven. There are dozens and dozens of beautiful perfume flacons displayed throughout the chamber with blotting papers at the ready for your testing pleasure. Two easy chairs in one corner were most appreciated as I felt somewhat overwhelmed after an hour of sampling. Yes, I nearly swooned with delight! The sales associates were friendly but non-intrusive and did not seem to mind my camera and notepad.

Perfume display, second floor

Bee bottles!

The classics are all here: Jicky, created in 1889 and considered by many to be the first "modern" perfume and the first unisex fragrance; Apres L’Ondee (After the Rain Shower), the lovely violet-scented, powdery floral created in 1906 by Jacques Guerlain; Mitsouko, created in 1919, with its earthy heart notes of oakmoss and peach; Shalimar, the ambery floral created in 1925 and still considered the flagship perfume of Guerlain; and Liu, a beautiful floral/aldehyde fragrance created in 1929.

Common to many of the Guerlain fragrances is a special vanilla and amber accord. This unique accord is often referred to as the Guerlinade and a perfume by the same name was launched by Guerlain in 1921. It is a very light, pretty floral that would be good for daytime wear.

A special section of the room is devoted to the four fragrances in Guerlain’s latest collection, “L’Art et la Matiere”. Each of these fragrances has been created around a rare, precious ingredient by a master perfumer.

The collection includes Rose Barbare (Barbaric Rose), a beautiful elegant honey, rose and chypre fragrance created by French-Armenian perfumer Francis Kurkdjian; Cuir Beluga (Beluga leather), created by Olivier Polge; Angélique Noire (Black Angelica), created by Daniele Andrier; and Bois d’Armenie (Armenian incense paper), created by Annick Menrdo.

It's hard to tell in the picture below, but the tall bottle with the puff-atomizer is Angélique Noire, my personal favorite in this collection. It is a fresh, clean, sweet fragrance of angelica root, bergamot and vanilla. It dries down to a soft, slightly gourmand vanilla scent with good lasting power. It is available at the Guerlain flagship store (140 euros/ 75 ml) and at Bergdorf Goodman $195 for 2.5 fl. oz.

Guerlain treasures

Alert readers may have noticed I did not list this perfumery under "Better-Know-A-Niche Perfumery." That is because the House of Guerlain is beyond niche. It is in a category unto itself and stands alone as one of the first haute perfume houses in the world. Très bien!

photo credits: Christine Pierce

Better-Know-A-Niche Perfumery: Serge Lutens -- Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

2007-01-17T07:37:00.000-08:00

Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido is home to the exceptional creations of Serge Lutens, master perfumer for this boutique since 1990. M. Lutens is wonderfully skilled in making harmonious, mysterious fragrances blended with rare and unusual essences. His fondness for Marrakech, where he has lived for many years, is evidenced in many of his warm, sultry, woodsy and spicy fragrances.

To learn more about M. Lutens, I recommend this terrific interview by Astrid Vitols in Osmoz. There is also a great website devoted to all things Serge Lutens here (although quite a bit has not been translated from French into English).

This distinct line of niche perfumes is showcased in the beautiful, hushed boutique located in the historic Garden of the Palais-Royal in Paris' first arrondissement. There is an almost reverential air in the main salon where the fragrances are on display. Each corner of the high-ceilinged room has a beautiful glass case displaying the line of fragrances. Each bottle of fragrance is paired with a previously-dipped scent strip which has dried down to its final notes. It is a visual delight just looking at the classic bell jars of eau de parfum, some availaible only in this boutique. (Fortunately, they may also be ordered online from the salons-shiseido website; cost is 100 euros for 75 ml eau de parfum).

Some of my favorites include:

Ambre Sultan:: a classic amber oriental fragrance with oregano, laurel, myrtle, amber, labdanum, benzoin, resins, angelica root, patchouli, sandalwood, styrax and tolu balsam

Bois et Fruits: a woodsy floral with apricot, red plum, peach and figs on a cedar base

A La Nuit: a sweet floral with jasmine, clove, benzoin, white honey and musk

Tubéreuse Criminelle: a rich tuberose floral with orange blossom, clove, musk, nutmeg, jasmine, tuberose, vanilla, styrax, and hyacinth greens

What I found most interesting about Tubéreuse Criminelle was how harsh the top notes were. When I first smelled it, I was hit with a gasoline/asphalt odor that nearly took my breath away! The sales associate must have seen the look of dismay cross my face as I snifffed it expectantly on the back of my hand. "Give it time," she said. So I walked outsided into the courtyard and strolled around in the cool winter air. A short while later, I sniffed it again. She was right! It had changed dramatically and was now a deep, rich tuberose scent that I just loved. I still do! The color of this eau de parfum is also unexpected. Most tuberose fragrances I am familiar with are a pale yellow hue. Not so with this one. It is a dark ambery brown, like an expensive cognac.

Tubéreuse Criminelle reminded me of two important lessons when trying new fragrances: 1) give yourself plenty of time for the dry-down; and 2) don't judge a fragrance by its color.

This line is available at aedes, $92-$120 for 1.69 ounces. It is also available at The Perfume House and in Australia at mecca.

photo credits: Christine Pierce

Better-Know-A-Niche Perfumery: The Different Company

2007-01-15T10:45:00.000-08:00

On my second day in Paris, I went to what turned out to be one of my favorite niche perfumeries in the city: The Different Company. This perfumery was created at the beginning of this century with the goal of creating luxurious fragrances with rare and precious ingredients and keen attention to detail and craftsmanship.

Located on a quiet side street in the 2nd arrondissement, this boutique has a very clean, zen-like feel to it. The minimalist approach is reflected in the clean lines of the bottles made of carefully blown glass and topped with hefty bronze caps.

The press relations associate, Julie, was extremely helpful and very knowledgeable about the line. I was able to test the different fragrances at my own pace, and Julie answered my many questions with great patience and charm.

The Different Company collection currently has nine beautiful fragrances:

Bois d'Iris: Iris, vetiver, cedarwood, narcissus, geranium, musk

Osmanthus: Chinese osmanthus, leaf green, bergamot, orange, tangerine, rose, rose bay, castoreum, hay, and musk

Rose Poivrée: Damascus Rose, centifolia rose, rose bay, pepper, coriander, vetiver, civet

Bergamote: Bergamot (70%), ginger, orange blossoms, leaf green, rhubarb and musk

Jasmin de Nuit: Egyptian jasmine, star anise, cinnamon, cardamom, black currant, sandalwood, musk, and amber

Sel de Vétiver: cardamom, grapefruit, geranium, Haitian vetiver, Indonesian patchouli, ylang ylang and iris

Charmes et Feuilles: marjoram, peppermint, sage, wild thyme, jasmine sambac, grapefruit, clementine and patchouli

Sens et Bois: Chinese cedar wood, white violet, black pepper, elemi resin, ginger, patchouli, vervain, bergamot and incense

Ailleurs et Fleurs: neroli, petigrain, tuberose, hazelnut- and elder-flowers, mandarin, star anise, Bigarade orange, soft musk and plum

Choosing a favorite is difficult because they are each delightful and full of unique character. So I will choose two: Jasmin de Nuit and Ailleurs et Fleurs. Both of these gorgeous florals were created by Céline Ellena. Jasmin de Nuit is made with a particularly high concentration of Egyptian jasmine blended with warm cinnamon, cardamom and star anise on a bed of golden amber. It has a delicious dry-down and very good staying power. I am a big fan of jasmine in any form, and this fragrance is one of my favorite jasmine blends.

Ailleurs et Fleurs combines the delicate white flowers, neroli and tuberose, with petigrain oil and elder blossoms on a soft, musky base. This is a sheer, yet elegant transparent floral with unexpected depth. It calls to mind summer afternoon garden parties with white organza dresses and pearls.

These fragrances are available directly from The Different Company website. They are also available at luckyscent and lusciouscargo, $130-$150 for 90 ml eau de toilette.

photo credits: Christine Pierce

Better-Know-A-Niche Perfumery: Etat Libre d'Orange

2007-01-11T10:30:00.000-08:00

Our journey continues across the Seine into the 3rd arrondissement, along the edge of the happenin' Marais district. At the corner of Rue Pastourelle and Rue des Archives is the new parfumerie, Etat Libre d'Orange. Founded by Etienne de Swardt in 2006, this parfumerie allows its perfumers (Nathalie Feisthauer, Antoine Lie and Antoine Masondieu) free reign in their creative expression.

This is reflected in the provocative names of the fragrances:

sécrétions magnifique (magnificent secretions): iris, cocoa, sandalwood, opoponax

vraie blonde (real blonde): aldehydes, Champagne, rose, white pepper, myrrh, patchouli, suede...

je suis un homme (I am a man): bergamot, orange bigarade, lemon, myrtle, cinnamon, clove, cognac accord, leather, patchouli, animal notes...

encens et bubblegum (incense and bubblegum): peach, raspberry, vanilla, lily of the valley, orange blossom musk, incense...

jasmin et cigarette (jasmine and cigarette): jasmine absolute, tobacco, hay, apricot, tonka bean, turmeric, cedar, amber, musk...

putain des palaces (hotel slut): Rose absolute, violet, leather, lily of the valley, tangerine, ginger, rice powder, amber, animal notes...
eloge du traitre (praise of a traitor): pine, laurel, mugwort, clove, geranium, jasmine, patchouli, leather, musk...

rien (nothing): incense, rose, leather, iris, rock rose, oakmoss, styrax pyrogene, patchouli, amber, cumin, black pepper, aldehydes...

nombril immense (large belly button): patchouli, balsam of Peru, vetiver, black pepper, sweet myrrh, bergamot, carrot seed, ambrette seed...

antihéros (anti-hero): lavender, musk, wood

divin'enfant (Divine Child): orange blossom, rose, amber, musk, leather and tobacco...

The sales associate and I had a very merry time with the translations! We sat across from each other at her desk as she carefully sprayed each fragrance onto a blotting strip for me to smell, one at a time. I would smell each one with care, try to guess some of the notes, and then ask the name. I think everything sounds beautiful when spoken in French, but sometimes the translations can be a bit jarring! For instance, one of my favorite scents, Putain des Palaces, a soft, powdery rosy floral, sounds like beauty incarnate when its name is spoken in French. When she translated it for me as, "Hotel Slut," I nearly fell off my chair laughing! Probably not the response she was expecting, but the incongruence between the beautiful scent/melodious French name and the English equivalent caught me off guard.

I also really like Vraie Blonde, a bubbly aldehyde that feels very youthful. The newest fragrance has not yet been launched, but I was able to smell a sample. It is named Vierges et Toreros (Virgins and Bullfighters) and is a light tuberose/incense scent on a woodsy, musky base. For more information on this line, please see the Etat Libre d'Orange website.

Newsflash: Victoria mentions on her Bois de Jasmin website that the line is going to be availabe at Henri Bendel’s in NYC in the winter of 2007.

Next stop: The Different Company

photo credits: Christine Pierce

Better-Know-A-Niche Perfumery: L'Artisan Parfumeur

2007-01-08T10:30:00.000-08:00

My fourth stop of the morning was the darling L'Artisan Parfumeur, just around the corner and down the street at 24 Boulevard Raspail, 75007 (01 42 22 23 32). This cheerful boutique, founded by Jean Laporte in 1976, features a wide range of unique eaux de toilette, home fragrances and fragrant objects. I fell in love with the limited edition Fleur de Narcisse 2006 Eau de Parfum. Last year was a bumper crop for the Narcissus flower, and this exquisite fragrance is the sweet essence of elegance in a bottle.

I also enjoyed the trio of eaux de toilettes, Les Epices de la Passion, translated as Love Potions. These three fragrances are inspired by ancient recipes for bewitching magic spells!

Safran Troublant (Saffron Spell) is the sweetest of the three. It combines saffron and vanilla with red rose and sandalwood into a lovely golden elixir.

Poivre Piquant (Fiery Pepper) is the the spiciest scent, combining strong notes of white pepper with the slight bitterness of licorice and velvety softness of honey and milk.

Piment Brûlant (Hot Pimento) is my favorite in the set. It is warm and spicy like red pepper, softened with a bit of chocolate, all blended with a touch of vanilla, poppy and cloves.

This trio of three 15-ml sprays is packaged in a beautiful red satin cylindrical case in a black gift box for $75 which can be ordered on the L'Artisan Parfumeur website.

Also interesting is the special 5-piece collection eaux de toilette Sautes d'Humeur (Mood Set). These five fragrances, “Lazy mood”, “Angry mood”, “Jealous mood”, “Joyful mood”, and “Spiritual mood” are a means of expressing or changing your mood in a very elemental way! I will be describing these in a later post, after I have time to feel their effects!

Finally, I also stopped by the L'Artisan Parfumeur flagship store near the Louvre.

This boutique offers a 3-hour perfume-making workshop in the upstairs studio. Cost is 95 euros. The class is offered sporadically, so do check in advance if you are interested in taking it. I was told by the sales associate that on a clear day the cozy atelier has a spectacular view of the Eiffel tower. Sadly, it was hidden by clouds on my visit!

Thus ends my first morning in Paris! Stay tuned for a description of my intriguing afternoon visit to the hip new parfumerie, Etat Libre d'Orange.

photo credits: Christine Pierce

Better-Know-A-Niche Perfumery: Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

2007-01-07T20:08:00.000-08:00

My third Parisian parfumerie was Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle, located a couple blocks from Maître Parfumeur et Gantier at 37 rue de Grenelle, 75007.

Frederic Malle shook up the perfume world a few years ago when he offered nine world-class perfumers the freedom to create the luxurious perfumes of their choice. The resulting fragrances are of the highest quality and are a true delight for the senses. This boutique is very sleek and modern, with six floor-to-ceiling glass tubes in which customers may test various scents.

It's hard to tell from this photo, but basically the cylinder swings open at waist level, and you stick your head into the tube and breathe in the fragrance, in this case, En Passant. It is a terrific way to smell the pure fragrance with no olfactory distractions.

My favorite fragrances in this line are Carnal Flower, a rich, elegant tuberose-based floral created by Dominique Ropion; En passant, Olivia Giacobetti's ethereal white lilac fragrance with watery notes, orange tree leaves, cucumber and wheat; and Iris Poudre, a sophisticated floral of iris, jasmine and rose warmed on a vanilla and sandalwood base. It was created by Pierre Bourdon.

The sales associate at this boutique told me it took 700 trials before deciding upon the final recipe for Carnal Flower. She said 15 trials/day would be presented for testing over a great length of time. I must say, it was well worth the wait!

Their website has an intriguing chart under the "choose your own perfume" tab indicating where each frederic malle fragrance is located on a scent grid. There is a "fresh/transparent"..."warm/rich" continuum intersected by a "sweet/soft"..."dry/streamlined" continuum. This visual display makes it very easy to begin choosing a fragrance. I wish all perfumeries would adopt this technique!

These 15 exceptional fragrances can be purchased in the U.S. at Barneys New York (in New York City, L.A., Boston and Dallas) and online at: barneys new york.
Cost: Carnal Flower 100 ml $250; En Passant 50 ml $105; Iris Poudre 100 ml $180. Also available is the test kit of 14-10 ml samples and descriptive booklet, for 240 euros on the Frederic Malle website.

photos credit: Christine Pierce

Better-Know-A-Niche Perfumery: Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

2007-01-05T16:43:00.000-08:00

The second stop on my Parisian perfume tour was Maître Parfumeur et Gantier (MPG), located conveniently next to Parfums de Nicolai at 84 Rue de Grenelle, 75007. This classical parfumerie was founded in 1989 by perfumer Jean-François Laporte. Since 1997, Jean-Paul Millet Lage has headed the company.

Based on the High French Perfumery concept of the 17th century, Maître Parfumeur et Gantier literally translates as "Master Perfumer and Glovemaker." This is in reference to the historical link between glove-making and perfumery created by the fashion for perfumed gloves in France during the 1600s. (For a terrific description of the connection between glove-making, perfumery, and Grasse, please see Grasse's Museum website).

MPG is a parfumerie using very rare and fine ingredients to create luxurious perfumes. It has a variety of women's fragrances, men's fragrances, and home fragrances. The women's collection consists of four lines: The Divine Flowers; The Light Symphonies; The Mystery Accords; and The Invitation of the Journey.

After sampling several eaux de toilette at MPG, my favorite fragrance was Freezia d'Or ("Gold Freesia"), in the Mystery Accords line. It contains freesia, tuberose, neroli, jasmine, ylang ylang, iris and sandalwood. It is an absolutely delicious, freesia-y scent lightened by the refreshing lift of neroli. I had every intention of buying a small bottle, but it was not to be.

"Why not?" you may be tempted to ask. Well, since this stop was very early in my Parisian fragrance journey, and I did not want to be overloaded with shopping bags, I blithely assumed (wrongly, as it turns out), that I would be able to pick up a bottle of Freezia d'Or at the department store near my hotel. "Au Printemps" is one of the grand old department stores in the 9th arrondissement. It contains an extensive collection of hard-to-find perfumes, including Maître Parfumeur et Gantier. However, it is only a partial line. It does not carry "Freezia d'Or." Word to the wise....

Fortunately, "Freezia d'Or" is available online at aedes and beautycafe (cost: $105/3.3 ounces ).

The sales associate at MPG, Catherine, was very charming and helpful. She asserted that if one is wearing a fragrance that is suitable to one's chemistry, that one should not be able to smell the scent on oneself after application. In other words, if you can smell your perfume after you put it on (given a dry-down period, I assume), it might not be right for you. Others, she continued, should be able to smell it, however, and be pleased by it. What are your thoughts on this?

If you'd like to see my previous review of MPG Eau de Camelia Chinois, please visit here.

Next stop: Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

photo credit: Christine Pierce

Better-Know-A-Niche Perfumery: Parfums de Nicolai

2007-01-04T13:35:00.000-08:00

My first morning in Paris, I made a beeline to the Left Bank. Armed with a map and a list of four parfumeries I wanted to visit before lunch, I hopped off the Metro at Rue-du-Bac, walked briskly to 30 Rue de Grenelle, 75007, and prepared to enter the store. It was not yet open. Drat! As I was quickly to discover, most stores in Paris open at 10:30 or 11:00 am. They are often closed for lunch as well. So, I took a quick walk around the block, watching my breath form clouds in the cold morning air, and circled around for another attempt. Bingo! The parfumerie was open!

This parfumerie is very petite but also very charming. I remembered it from a prior visit in 1998, and it looked remarkably the same. On that visit, I had purchased "Juste Un Reve" eau de toilette (an elegant jasmine and rose floral) and "Mimosaique" eau de parfum (yellow mimosa and green leaves - with iris root, jasmine and anise). Both were still available on this visit.

This time I tried four different fragrances, and ultimately selected a 30 ml bottle of "Rose-Pivoine" (Rose-Peony) eau de toilette. This is a very wearable, light floral fragrance consisting of top notes of bergamot and tangerine; middle notes of rose and peony; and base notes of amber and oak moss. Rose-Pivoine is the perfect fragrance to wear when you want something that is not over-powering but rather more of a background presence to your day. It can be purchased at beautyhabit. Cost: $40 for 30 ml edt. Parfum de Nicolai fragrances can also be found at Luckyscent.

Parfums de Nicolai was created by perfumeur Patricia de Nicolai and her husband, Jean-Louis, in 1989. As the grand-daughter of Pierre Guerlain, Patricia grew up immersed in the world of perfumery. She studied chemistry and attended the ISIPCA perfume school in Versailles. In 1988, Patricia was the first woman to receive the prestigious prize of the best international perfumer from the French Society of Perfumers.

Since 2005, Patricia has been using her creativity and her excellent knowledge of natural essential oils to create custom blends for individual clients. She compares custom-blended perfume to "haute couture" in the fashion world. For more information, please see the Parfums de Nicolai website.

Next: a visit to Maître Parfumeur et Gantier.

photo credits: Christine Pierce

My Luggage Arrived Today!

2007-01-03T20:31:00.000-08:00

Hooray! My luggage arrived today, with all of the perfume bottles intact and fully accounted for. I am thrilled to have these pretty bottles of liquid gold lined up on my counter. Starting tomorrow, I will begin discussing the various perfume houses I visited, as well as the different fragrances I brought back to the States.

For now, jet lag is casting it's ugly shadow, so I will quickly follow-up my last post with a description of Fragonard "Capucine" eau de toilette. In contrast to yesterday's light, citrusy "Eau du Bonheur," "Capucine" is a warm, oriental fragrance consisting of green tea and bergamot top notes; middle notes of rose and jasmine; and base notes of musk, winter woods and vanilla. While it's not one of my favorites, I can see how it would be a cozy choice to wear on a cold winter's day. It can be purchased online at Fragonard, $32/100 ml edt refillable spray, or $48/200 ml.

Fragonard Perfume Museum

2007-01-02T14:11:00.000-08:00

Day 4 with neither my luggage...nor my perfume samples.....

As I was dolefully unpacking my meager carry-on bag which represented the sole remainder of my European luggage, I chanced upon five TSA-approved foil-wrapped eaux de toilette samples from Fragonard Parfumeur which had made their way into one of the bag's many hidden pockets. Joy! All was not lost! I tore open the first packet, Eau du Bonheur, and sniffed happily away. My mood noticeably brightened as I took in the cheerful essences of bergamot, orange blossom, mate leaf, sandalwood and cedar. These single-use towelettes are a wonderful way to try a new fragrance, and are perfect for travel.

I obtained these samples at the beautiful Fragonard Perfume Museum (Musee Du Parfum) in Paris. Located in a 19th-century town house near the Opera Garnier, this museum has displays depicting 3000 years of perfume history. It is a short, self-guided tour with some very interesting pieces. Here is a Perfume Organ:

This is a Perfume Coffret from the 19th century:

Tomorrow while awaiting my luggage, I will try my second Fragonard eau de toilette-towelette, "Capucine." Stay tuned!

top image: Fragonard Perfume Museum, Paris; photo credit: Christine Pierce

Happy New Year!

2006-12-31T15:39:00.000-08:00

I want to take this opportunity to wish all of you a new year filled with peace, delight, and indescribably beautiful fragrances. It has been a joy writing about perfume and getting to know you through your wonderful comments and emails. I am finding people in the world of perfume bloggery, both writers and readers, to be some of the most creative, generous, and humorous people around! Thank you for your kind, enthusiastic support of The Perfume Bee. May 2007 be scented with all good things for you and your families!

I have just returned from a delightful, whirlwind, perfume-filled family vacation to Prague, Salzburg, and Paris. I made a pact with myself to purchase only those perfumes that I could not easily get in the States, if at all. I think you will be pleased with my choices, which I look forward to reviewing for you. However, there will be a short delay in writing my reviews, as my carefully packed bags have yet to arrive at my home -- my luggage is currently stranded somewhere between here and London's Heathrow Airport! Air Transportation rules being what they are, I have a total of one (yes, one!) tiny perfume sample to show for my efforts. And it is lovely, if not new: L'Artisan Parfumeur "La Chasse Aux Papillons Extreme" (translation: Chase of the Butterflies). This eau de parfum version is a sparkling blend of sun-kissed white flowers: linden blossom, lemon tree blossom, orange blossom, jasmine and tuberose, as well as spicy pink pepper and a touch of saffron. I find it warm and wearable, even in winter. This fragrance is available in the U.S. at Aedes, $90 for 1.7 oz.

Stay tuned for more tomorrow, in the saga of, "Will her luggage arrive today?"

top photo (personal collection): Caron Parfum Interior, Paris

botton photo (personal collection): Flagship Store, L'Artisan Parfumeur, Paris

Traveling Bee...

2006-12-16T11:05:00.000-08:00

I'm off to Europe for the next two weeks, seeking out intriguing perfumes wherever I go! I look forward to sharing my new discoveries with you when I return December 31st. I will try to post while I'm abroad as my internet access allows. Meanwhile, I wish you the happiest of holidays and a beautifully-scented new year!

image source: wikepedia.org

Also, don't forget to vote for your favorite perfume blog at the 7th Annual Basenote's Awards for best fragrance blog (as well as best niche fragrance, best new fragrance, best fragrance packaging, etc.) It is quick and simple to vote here. Your name will be entered in a drawing to win a $200 giftcard from the sponsor, Aedes de Venustas! Closing date for entries is December 31, 2006.

Better-Know-A-Niche Perfumery: Frank Los Angeles

2006-12-15T19:25:00.000-08:00

While I have focused most of my writing on so-called "feminine" fragrances, my good friend J. suggested I branch out a bit and review men's fragrances as well. It would, she said, be helpful to men as well as to people buying fragrances for men. And, I might add, helpful to those of us who dislike the whole "feminine"-"masculine" perfume distinction in the first place.

So, today's niche fragrances are from a California line called Frank Los Angeles. There are two fragances in this line, convenienty named Frank and Frank 2.

Frank is the lighter of the two. Its notes are grapefruit, lemon, tagette, green tea, ginger root, cassis, bergamot, angelic seed, clove, cardamom, peppermint, ylang ylang, galbanum, and sandalwood. Did I like it? To be perfectly, well, frank, I did not care for this fragrance. At first. It started off smelling of rubbery Chinese food. It did not agree with me at all. However, MANY hours later, it dried down to a much more palatable citrus/spicy slightly woodsy scent. The ginger root/peppermint/sandalwood combo is what came through strongest at the end in a rather surprising finish. And for an eau de toilette, it has above-average staying power.

I found Frank 2 much more to my liking. With notes of bergamot, balsam fir, crushed plum leaves, white lavender, coriander, red maplewood, teakwood, cognac, coffee bean essence and white musk, this is a very magnetic and sensual fragrance. It is warm and slightly sweet, and is especially good to wear in cooler weather. I would definitely consider buying this for the Perfume Drone, if only he wore scented products!

Frank and Frank 2 cost $65 each for 65 ml. They are available at lucky scent and blush beauty bar.

image source: lucky scent

Winter Camellias

2006-12-12T19:00:00.000-08:00

As I was glancing out my kitchen window this morning, my gaze came to rest on a beautiful winter camellia plant in full bloom. It called to mind one of my favorite fragrances, Eau de Camelia Chinois by Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier.

I immediately gave myself a healthy spritz of the eau de toilette, and instantly felt lighter and brighter. Right off the top, it smells fresh and clean with a subtle zing of grapefruit. As it dries down, it becomes softer and sweeter, but not at all powdery. Its finish is reminiscent of a gossamer blanket of sheer, light musk and sandalwood layered within a pleasant green accord.

This is ostensibly a "summer" scent. And yet, if nature has camellias blooming in the middle of winter, surely it must be appropriate to wear a camellia-based scent in winter, too. So I am. And it's lovely!

Eau de Camelia Chinois has top notes of exotic fruits, grapefruit, banana and bergamot; middle notes of camellia tea leaves, basil and fir; and base notes of musk and sandalwood. It is part of the "L'Invitation au Voyage" collection and costs $105 for 100 ml EDT. It is available at mpg-paris.com, champs elysees cosmetics and luscious cargo.

"Comfort Scents"

2006-12-11T08:18:00.000-08:00

In my role as a nutrition counselor, I quickly became familiar with the concept of "comfort foods." My clients would confide that often they were eating, not because they were hungry, but because a particular food brought them a sense of psychological comfort and well-being.

I find this true of certain fragrances as well. To me, Christian Dior Addict is the emotional/olfactory equivalent of milk and freshly baked cookies. (This might be in part due to its delicious bourbon vanilla base). Sometimes I spritz my Addict in the air around me and just wait, eyes closed, as it floats in a gentle mist around me, landing on my skin like a gentle ethereal hug! Just breathing in the lovely scent makes me feel grounded, comforted and at peace.

How about you? Do you have a "comfort scent" that brings you a feeling of peace and equanimity?

Addict is available at Nordstrom and Sephora.

image source: Nordstrom

"The FEAR of Smell -- The smell of FEAR" Exhibit

2006-12-10T12:10:00.000-08:00

Today's topic is a slight departure from our recent perfume reviews. But in the name of science, I share with you information that you may choose to use, skip, or ignore. If you have a delicate constitution, you may wish to stop reading here. Know that our next post will be of a more, shall we say, palatable, nature.

I have always been interested in the intersection between the the art of making perfumes and the emotional impact of scents on our psyche. But what about actually making art from body odors? Is it possible to capture the essence of a body scent and put it on public display in an artistic setting?

This is exactly what Norwegian artist and researcher Sissel Tolaas has done in her exhibit currently on display at the MIT List Visual Arts Center in Cambridge, Massachusetts. Titled, "The FEAR of smell -- the smell of FEAR," this exhibit is part of a show called, "Sensorium: Embodied Experience, Technology, and Contemporary Art."

In a high-tech version of scratch-n-sniff, visitors can smell the odors of nine male scent donors. These men, who suffered from extreme phobias, were asked to touch a cotton-swab to their armpits at the time they were most afraid. These scents were then chemically reconstituted, mixed with wall paint, and applied to the panels in the exhibit. Visitors can touch the paint and smell the fear. For more, please read the Albany Times Union article.

In a related article, "Senses: A Whiff of Fear Can Sharpen a Woman's Thinking," Nicholas Bakalar (New York Times April 11, 2006) explains that a whiff of fear can actually make women better at recognizing useful information. In a slightly different version of smelling the scents of armpits, women in this study were asked to smell the sweat pads of sweat collected from volunteers during a frightening video, pads collected during a neutral video, and pads with no sweat at all. The women performed word association tasks, and those women smelling the fear pads were more accurate than those in the other two groups. Denise Chen, the study's lead author, surmised that it was the smell of fear that improved performance. Click here for the article.

What does this mean to those of us who love perfume on ourselves and others? Are we effectively disguising our true emotional states? Is this a good thing? As always, I am very interested to know your thoughts on this topic...

Better-Know-A-Niche Perfumery: Lily Lambert Perfume

2006-12-07T21:39:00.000-08:00

Portland perfumer Lily Lambert has just released her new line of eight perfume oils called SPECTRUM. Each fragrance is named for a letter in the name: S,P,E,C,T,R,U, and M.

These perfume oils are, in a word, fabulous! They each have their own personality and I have really enjoyed "getting to know them." I am naturally inclined, when faced with an array of roller-ball perfume oils, to get creative and mix and match and blend to my heart's content. However, in this case, each blend really stands beautifully on its own. So whether or not you can resist the temptation of mixing them into your own unique blend or prefer to wear them in their pure form, here are my thoughts on the individual fragrances:

S: Opium, amber, black berries and a hint of patchouli...

This is a deep, rich floral that lasts and lasts. It is spicy and warm. It is also slightly powdery, in a good way. One of my two favorites of this line...

P: Waterlily, chocolate, mango and a touch of nutmeg...

This really does smell like chocolate! Like a dark, rich 72% cacao blend. Nice, but too gourmand for me...

E: Coco, opium, musk and rain...

This is the heaviest and perhaps most complex scent in the line. It is very elegant and dries down to a gorgeous, evening scent. The rain element keeps it just light enough.

C: Cucumber, lemon lace and berries...

This is the clearest in color of the set (it is essentially colorless), which is representative of its sheer quality. It's light and airy and fruity -- the cucumber top notes are a pleasant surprise!

T: Coconut, sandalwood and powder...

This fragrance is very soft, sweet and pleasant. The dry-down has a nice little kick to it.

R: Cherries and a veil of light musk...

The top-note of this delicate, pale-green fragrance truly evokes a bowl of freshly picked, still-warm-from-the-sun cherries! This fragrance seems the most youthful to me -- it would be a great pick for teens and the young-at-heart.

U: Pink rose, caramel, and Egyptian sandalwood...

This light floral is very wearable and quite lovely. It is very clean.

M: White flowers, warm spices, musk...

This is my other favorite fragrance in the line. It is a beautiful blend of just the right mix of sweetness and soft musk. This is the yin to S's yang.

Lily Lambert perfume oils can be purchased for $40 each at blush beauty bar in Portland, Oregon. Since the line is so new (and perhaps not yet listed on their website), it might be easiest to order the old-fashioned way, via telephone: USA 503-227-3390. Be sure to mention The Perfume Bee when you do!

Better-Know-A-Niche Perfumery: The Bermuda Perfumery

2006-12-06T19:26:00.000-08:00

During the increasingly cold days of this season, when the days are short, the nights are long, and the sun seems far away, it is with great pleasure that I learned about the The Bermuda Perfumery, the house of the Lili Bermuda perfumes. This bright little niche perfumery was founded in 1928 by William Blackburn Smith and his daughter Madeline Scott. It was acquired by the Brackstone family in 2004. The sweet-smelling, distinctly Bermudian perfumes were originally made from the local flowers of the island and now contain essential oils from around the world. Visitors to the perfumery are encouraged to stroll through the beautiful garden behind the building and to visit the old cottage, where the perfumes are actually made. All their perfumes are still bottled and packaged individually by hand on-site at the Perfumery.

The line consists of 7 fragrances for women and 2 fragrances for men.

Lily: wild muguet, tamarine and pear flower

Jasmine: romantic jasmine, freesia and magnolia

Oleander: delicate Bermuda oleander, muguet and white orris

Passion Flower: heady gardenia, passion flower and mimosa

Frangipanni: captivating orange blossom, ylang ylang, patchouli and jasmine

Paradise: subtle and warm bergamot, warm spices, vanilla and patchouli

Coral: Fusion of clementine, freesia, nectar of rose and ginger

Cedar: warm cedar, bergamot, rosemary and juniper

Navy: fresh bergamot, mandarine and green lime

I tested two scents. Coral is their newest fragrance, introduced last spring. It smells very fresh and clean, with the freesia adding just the right note of sweetness to balance the spice of the ginger. For a relatively light scent, it has very good staying-power.

The second fragrance I tested is Lily. Catching a whiff of this very feminine, elegant-without-being-stuffy scent is like thrusting your nose into a freshly-picked bouquet of lilies-of-the-valley. It is quite lovely, and would be appropriate for a formal evening affair, or when you just want to be reminded of springtime in the middle of winter. While I like them both, Lily is my favorite of the two.

A wonderful way to try this line is by ordering The Perfume Library. This sample box contains vials of all seven women's' perfumes and two men's eaux de toilette for $22.

Each fragrance is offered in the form of a perfume, eau de toilette, body lotion and shower gel. For more information, please go to their website.

perfume images source: bermuda perfumery
lilies-of-the-valley image source: wikipedia

... More on Signature Scents

2006-12-05T09:30:00.000-08:00

In our continuing conversation about signature scents, I 'd like to share a link to Victoria's blog, Bois de Jasmin, in which she features a fascinating article on this very topic by Canadian fragrance expert Marian Bendeth.

image source: wikipedia

Hunting for Your Signature Scent...

2006-12-04T09:23:00.000-08:00

That elusive signature scent... The perfect scent to call one's own. Will the hunt ever end? Or is it the hunt that makes it all worthwhile?

Yesterday's New York Times T Magazine has an article by Daphne Merkin discussing her lifelong quest for her signature scent. (If you want to know if she is successful in her quest, please read the article here. Hint: she is...) She describes the search for your own perfume, the one imbued with your signature every bit as much as your handwriting.

I like her comparison of a signature scent to one's actual written signature. It is something that is uniquely associated with oneself in an extremely personal, inimitable manner. It is like a scented calling card which you leave behind, letting others know that, yes, you were there.

As I look through my own fragrance wardrobe, I do not see a signature scent. What I do see is my own fragrant journey... I will write about the particulars of this scented story in a future post. For now, I am in interested in your signature scent. Have you found it? If so, how long did it take you to find it? How did you know when you had found it? Or are you, like me, still searching?

image source: Wikepedia public domain

Japanese Smell Recorder Recreates and Reproduces Scents Digitally

2006-12-02T12:37:00.000-08:00

How many times have you said to yourself, "Gosh, the description of that perfume sounds marvelous. If only I could press a button on my computer and have a whiff of it to see if I like it?"

Well, Japanese scientists are getting close to making that a reality. As can be seen from the above illustration, it is now possible to digitally record a scent. This scent can then be reproduced by mixing 96 chemicals in a scent blender, vaporized, and, puff, the scent is recreated at a computer for one's smelling pleasure!

The possibilities for the use of the scent recorder in perfumery seem limitless. However, the technology is still in the experimental stages and the equipment is a little cumbersome (see image below).

images source Tokyo Institute of Technology

But I am confident that soon we will able to, with a push of a button, smell any number of fragrances right at our own computer. Imagine the monetary savings in being able to easily test a fragrance before purchasing -- no more blind purchasing mistakes! Let me know: do you think this technology will be a good thing?

For more information about this technology, please visit The Tokyo Institute of Technology Nakamoto Laboratory website.

Art Deco and Molinard Perfume Bottles

2006-11-30T10:15:00.000-08:00

I'll admit it: I have a weakness for all things Art Deco. When I am visiting New York and turn a corner and catch a glimpse of the exquisite Chrysler Building, it invariably takes my breath away. There is just something about the art and architecture and general ambience of that era which I really resonate with.

So imagine my delight in coming upon the Molinard Collection of perfumes on a recent visit to the Perfume House. The Molinard 1849 collection of seven luxurious Eau de Parfums is based on Molinard's original recipes dating back to the 1920's, 30's and 50's. The exquisite collection features each of the seven fragrances in gorgeous art-deco styled bottles, complete with puff-ball atomiser!

image source: Perfume House

The collection includes

Habanita, a floral-oriental created in 1921 featuring petigrain, vetiver, ylang-ylang, heliotrope, amber, vanilla, musk, patchouli, and sandalwood

Gardenia, a floral with notes of freesia, orange flower, gardenia, jasmine, cyclamen, and musk
Iles D'Or, a fruity floral scent with freesia, jasmine, amber, sandalwood, cedarwood, vanilla and musk

M de Molinard, a floral green scent opening with bergamot, rose and narcissus on a base of amber, patchouli, incense and vetiver

Verveine, a fresh green natural scent with notes of bergamot, verveine leaves, mandarin, jasmine, osmanthus, vetiver, musk and amber

Un Air de Molinard, a citrusy fragrance of mandarin, grapefruit, jasmin, rose, blue iris, vanilla, vetiver, musk and amber

Nirmala, a fruity floral with mandarin, grapefruit, jasmine, fleurs-des-iles, vanilla, tonka, and sandalwood

image source: Aedes

The House of Molinard was established in Grasse, France, in 1849. A wonderful history of this House can be found at the Molinard website. It is here that we learn, for instance, that during the Second World War, Molinard invented "the Prisoner's parcel" to bring comfort to French prisoners. How great is that!?! I know that if I were in prison, a care package of perfumes would be so very appreciated!

The fragrances are available in the beautiful bottles 3.3 oz. bottles ($185, except for Habinata, which is $295) as well as in portable concrete solid perfume compacts (great for air travel!) for $65. They can be purchased at The Perfume House and aedes.

Better-Know-A-Niche Perfumery: Sharon Bolton Scents

2006-11-28T08:11:00.000-08:00

When my Sharon Bolton Scents arrived, I was immediately taken with the bold packaging and sophisticated presentation. Nestled in a sturdy black photo-storage box filled with crinkly white paper, the perfume oil came tied with a bright pink grosgrain ribbon and the entire package was wrapped in a satiny black bow. This loving attention to detail is evident in the whole Sharon Bolton Scents philosophy.

Sharon Bolton is a Santa Barbara, California, perfumer who has created three beautiful scents which incorporate soft white florals, sparkling citrus notes, and exotic tropical highlights. She uses no dyes or pigments, and all of her products are kept as natural as possible. She expertly blends her fragrances with great care, using the finest ingredients. All products are cruelty free and her packaging is 100% recyclable. Further, Sharon Bolton Scents gives to a number of charities. These include the Muscular Dystrophy Association, Susan G. Komen, The Teddy Bear Foundation and the Diabetes Association.

Each perfume oil comes in a 1/8 ounce roller bottle and costs $42 (with samples for $2 each). I found them all to be absolutely lovely and wearable. Furthermore, the light musky base notes common to all three scents made them easy to wear in combination.

The first scent I tried was Luv Perfume Oil. This very feminine scent proved to be my favorite of the three, with its pink gardenia, Hawaiian white flowers and creamy vanilla floating on the airy musky base. Luv is the kind of scent you can wear all day and never grow tired of. I found it a mood-lifter as well; just catching a whiff on my wrist was like a mini tropical get-a-way. It also has incredible staying power. It lasted through the night and into the morning.

Truth Perfume Oil is a clean, citrusy-floral, again with the light musk undertone. It smells green and sheer and would be perfect for a day by the pool or a game of tennis!

Soul Perfume Oil is the fruitiest of the three. It contains papaya, pineapple, and creamy coconut with a base of sheer musk. It smelled a bit like pink bubble-gum at first, but then dried down to a soft, fruity finish. It might be the most appealing to the preteen/teenager in your life.

Each fragrance also comes available as a Body Lotion (8 oz. $27) and Body Wash (8 oz. $24). The body wash is enriched with Shea Butter and White Tea. It lathers into a rich foam and also works as a bubble bath. The body lotion is not too heavy, and smells wonderful. I'd like to suggest that Sharon consider plans to develop a body cream as well, for the drying winter months ahead...

Overall, these three beautiful scents are a delight to the senses. Their portability is an added plus. They can be ordered online at sharon bolton scents as well as at several boutiques listed on their website. And readers of theperfumebee are being offered free shipping on all orders over $40.00 until December 23rd using the promo code perfumebee.

For another great review, please see Product-Girl

image source: sharon bolton scents

Fragrance Foundation Offers Fragrance Tips

2006-11-26T21:16:00.000-08:00

The Fragrance Foundation offers a wealth of information related to the world of perfume. In their Fragrance Tips, we read:

Everyone has a personal "scent circle": approximately an arm's length from the body. No one should be aware of your fragrance unless he or she steps inside your "circle." Fragrance should be one of the most subtle, personal messages you send to those with whom you come in contact.

For a long-lasting effect, fragrance should be layered all over the body, starting with toilet water or eau de parfum...
Click here for the rest of the tips and follow the link at the bottom of the page to Press/Consumer Info and then locate Fragrance Tips.

I really like this idea of the scent circle. It has been my experience that an arm's length of scent radiation is just about right, but it is not easy to achieve. How many of us have had the unfortunate experience of being in the presence of someone with a scent circle MUCH larger than an arm's length? As in the size of a room? Conversely, sometimes a fragrance clings so closely that we are not aware of it on others even when sitting next to them.

What do you consider to be the perfect size for a scent circle? And what fragrance have you found that achieves this goal?

image source: fragrance foundation

Courvoisier™ Cognac L'edition Imperiale Fragrance for Men

2006-11-22T08:59:00.000-08:00

I was reflecting just the other day on the fact that my husband has a vast collection of miniature liquor bottles collected over many years of travel, while I have a collection of beautiful perfumes collected over many years of shopping and travel.

With the recent debut of Courvoisier™ L'edition Imperiale eau de parfum at the TFWA World Exhibition in Cannes, our collections will finally merge: here is a fragrance made by a liquor company! Granted, this is touted as a men's fragrance, but it may very well be a unisex scent. One thing is for certain: Courvoisier™ LÂ’edition Imperiale is not a cognac-flavored fragrance!

Top notes include cardamom, mandarin, tagette and coriander. The mid-notes are atlas cedarwood, smoked tea, royal calla lily and violet, while the base notes consist of vetiver, fir balsam, leather and warm amber.

Courvoisier™ L'edition Imperiale eau de parfum will retail for more than $100 per 75ml bottle, while the eau de toilette will retail for slightly less. Both offerings will also be available in 125ml bottles. This fragrance will be sold in select upscale department stores and duty-free locations and will be available in the spring of 2007.
Cheers!

info source: press release

...Scents from Perfume: The Story of A Murderer, continued

2006-11-20T17:05:00.000-08:00

Chandler Burr's recent New York Times article provides a fascinating look at the creation of the 15 scents mentioned in yesterday's post. Beginning in 2000, Christophe Laudamiel began systematically recreating the major scenes in the movie, in scents, one by one.

Without giving away too much of the movie, let's just say that it was impossible (not to mention diabolical) to try to recreate the scent of murderd virgins as the character Grenouille tried to do. Ergo, the creation of a perfume to enhance one's own smell, namely: Aura. For the rest of the article, read here

For more about the movie, due out December 27th, click here

Thierry Mugler's Aura: A Perfume Enhancer!

2006-11-20T08:22:00.000-08:00

When is a perfume not a perfume? When it's a perfume ENHANCER! Aura is one of the 15 essences in The Thierry Mugler Limited Edition "Perfume" Coffret which has been created in conjunction with the new movie Perfume. The set contains 14 Perfume-related olfactory compositions plus Aura, a fragrance enhancer.

I really am trying to get my mind around the concept of a perfume enhancer. To help us out, I quote from the Thierry Mugler website:

How does Aura work? Worn on its own, Aura is a subliminal enhancer that acts like a second radiant skin. Worn in combination with one's favorite fragrance, Aura intensifies facets of the fragrance.

Aura's adaptability is truly unique. To ensure that the elixir harmonizes with all 12 of the current primary fragrance families, Aura contains one or several ingredients from each respective family. Consequently, Aura can adapt to any perfume it is paired with like a chameleon, regardless of the fragrance family it originates from.

As far as the ingredients of this masterpiece are concerned we will reveal only this: it is not a conventional composition of top, heart and base notes, but an ingenious interweaving of powerful and lasting notes dosed to radiate, and entwined together in such a way as to not betray themselves...

Okay, that is all well and good. But what does it smell like?!? For this, we turn to Victoria at Bois de Jasmin who writes,

Aura is the only fragrance in the coffret that is slated to appear separately. In many ways, I find it to be the most approachable of the fifteen, but it makes it no less fascinating. It is warm, without being spicy; rich, without being heavy; woody, without being dense; musky, without being animalic.... click here for the rest of her post.

This description makes it sound very intriguing. If anyone else has had the opportunity to smell this scent, or any of the other 14 essences, I'd love to hear your impressions.

Retail price for the Perfume Coffret is $700. Ordering information can be found at their website.

image source: thierrymugulerusa

Better-Know-A-Niche Perfumery: Sarbez Perfume

2006-11-17T17:10:00.000-08:00

I like to think of Sarbez Perfume as The Little Engine That Could. Against great odds over a time period spanning many years, Florida-based creator Peggy Dean created and launched an elegant perfume that is sure to become a classic.

Sarbez is a rich floral fragrance with bergamot, lavender and tropical modern twists. The heart of the fragrance consists of rich notes of ylang-ylang and jasmine with hints of fresh floral rose. The base is a resinous accord of sweet vanilla and Tonka beans surrounded by precious woods of patchouli. I found it started off a bit strong with the lavender/bergamot blend, but it quickly changed to a beautiful, flowery bouquet.

Peggy worked for many years in the perfume manufacturing and packaging industry before the long saga of her own perfume creation began. She has written a fascinating insider's book examining the big business of perfumery as well as the creation of Sarbez.

Sarbez: The Renaissance of a Fragrance, portrays the perfume industry in all its glamorous and not-so-glamorous glory. I really enjoyed reading this book. While it may not be the most mellifluous book, what it may lack in literary style it more than makes up for in its honest and enthusiastic description of the perfume industry and what it takes to bring a perfume from initial concept to final product. The book reads like a mystery, taking the reader on the fascinating journey of making a perfume. l learned a lot, including how difficult it is to find a good, and available, name for one's perfume. I have renewed appreciation for all perfumers willing to take this arduous journey to create their treasured fragrances and bring them into the world for us to enjoy.

Peggy has created a nice promotional package which includes a copy of the book and a 12 ml .40 fluid ounce spray for $25. It is great fun to be able to read all about the creation of a perfume while actually wearing the scent. Very interactive! See Sarbezperfume.com for ordering information.

For a lively interview with Peggy, see Marlen's conversation at The Perfume Critic.

image source: Sarbez Perfume

Better-Know-A-Niche Perfumery: Ineke of San Francisco

2006-11-15T07:04:00.000-08:00

Today we are getting to know the San Francisco niche perfumery, Ineke.

Ineke Ruhland is a classically-trained perfumer who creates beautiful, original scents in her independent studio in San Francisco. She studied perfumery at ISIPCA in Versailles, France and then apprenticed for three years at a fragrance house in Paris. Ineke moved to San Franciso, where she makes her lovely fragrances.

Each fragrance in her alphabetical collection begins with a consecutive letter of the alphabet: A - After My Own Heart; B - Balmy Days and Sundays; C - Chemical Bonding; D - Derring-Do.

The Deluxe Sample Collection contains spray samples of all 4 fragrances wrapped in a soft bag for travel. The $12 price is fully redeemable with any product purchase and is a terrific way to try the scents. This company is very customer-service oriented. When I ordered my sample set, it had insufficient postage (short by 34 cents). I didn't give it another thought, until a few days later I received a personal phone call from "Bill" at Ineke asking me to please call him and let him know of any postage due which he would gladly refund. Of course, I didn't report the fee, but I was very impressed that he had taken the trouble to ask.

The scents themselves are quite pleasant and wearable. My favorite is After My Own Heart, which Ineke describes as "the scent of fresh lilacs floating on the early breeze." It's soft and sweet, in a good way, and really does smell like the lilacs that bloom in my yard in May.

Balmy Days and Sundays is a chypre green scent; Chemical Bonding has sparkling citrus notes with a powdery dry down; and Derring-Do is citrusy-woodsy and the most unisex scent of the collection.

What others are saying:

Grant Osborne at Basenotes.com writes, "It is surprising no-one has done this before (as far as we know). San Francisco-based independent perfumer, Ineke Rühland has just launched four perfumes, each named after the first four letters of the alphabet. Ineke plans to launch 'E' in 2007, and the rest of the alphabet over the next ten years." Grant's article

Cait Shortell of Legerdenez writes, "Like all of Ineke's fragrances, Chemical Bonding is transparent and eminently wearable. In spite of its seeming simplicity, a careful analysis reveals..." Cait's article

The Scented Salamander writes, "My first impressions are that Ineke's perfumes are clean, pure, modernist, and original. They have a definite very contemporary feel to them.... " Scented Salamander article.

Scent update: even as I've been writing this while wearing two of Ineke's scents, I find that Chemical Bonding is proving to be very delicious. I highly recommend it.

For purchasing information, please see Ineke's website.

image source: ineke

Vote for Your Favorite Perfume and Perfume Blog

2006-11-13T19:55:00.000-08:00

Now it's your turn to make your preferences known and enter the chance to win a $200 giftcard from the sponsor, Aedes de Venustas! The 7th Annual Basenotes Awards are asking you to choose your favorite perfumes in several categories, including best new fragrance (for men and women), best niche fragrance (for men and women) and BEST FRAGRANCE/BEAUTY BLOG.

It's fine to leave some categories blank. Just vote for the ones you want to, paying special attention to question #20 (best fragrance/beauty blog) and question #21 (entry for the prize drawing). It is quick and simple to vote here. Closing date for entries is December 31, 2006.

Aedes de Venustas (latin for temple of beauty) is a New York-based perfumery, specializing in niche fragrance and beauty products. Founded in 1995, Aedes is located on Christopher Street in Greenwich Village, NY, but products can be ordered via mail-order or from their website Aedes.com. Their product ranges include, amongst others, Etro, Creed, Acqua di Biella, Comptoir Sud Pacifique, Diptyque, Escentric Molecules, Lorenzo Villoresi, Mark Birley, Mona di Orio, Montale, Parfums de Rosine, Penhaligon's, Santa Maria Novella and Serge Lutens.

image source: basenotes

Katie Holmes to Wear Clive Christian No. 1 Perfume on Wedding Day

2006-11-11T10:40:00.000-08:00

Let it never be said that Katie Holmes doesn't have expensive tastes. In her upcoming nuptials with Tom Cruise, she is said to be planning on wearing Clive Christian No. 1 Perfume. Created to be the most expensive perfume in the world (according to Clive.com), it costs $2,350.00 per ounce.

This lovely floral-oriental fragrance consists of top notes of pineapple, plum, mirabelle, bergamot, lemon, and cardamom; heart notes of rose, jasmine, ylang ylang, orris, and orchid; and base notes of vanilla, tonka seeds, cedarwood, sandalwood, and musk amber.

It comes in a 1-ounce, handmade crystal bottle adorned with a sparkling brilliant-cut white diamond on the collar.

The Clive Christian women's line has two other fragrances. 1872 is a floral-fruity-citrus fragrance made in honor of the year the Crown Perfumery was founded. It contains top notes of bergamot, tangerine, lemon, pineapple, blueberry and rosemary; heart notes of rose de mai, lily of the valley, jasmine, purple violet, and freesia; and base notes of cedarwood, sandalwood, patchouli, erogen musk, and moss. It retails for $700.

X is a sexy, modern fragrance infused with the dynamic, captivating scent of Egyptian jasmine. Classified as a chypre-fruity fragrance, X has top notes of peach, Sicilian mandarin, bergamot, rhubarb, and pineapple; heart notes of Egyptian jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, and orris; and base notes of patchouli, cedarwood, vetiver, vanilla, and cashmere musk. One ounce costs $850.

Clive Christian has a men's line with identical names, identical prices, and different ingredients. No. 1 Pure Perfume for Men combines rare notes of bergamot, lime, ylang ylang, and ambery woods.

1872 Pure Perfume for Men is a classic, spicy scent with notes of grapefruit, lime, cyclamen, cedarwood, and patchouli.

X Pure Perfume for Men is a sexy, woody fragrance combining notes of bergamot, sambac oil, orris, amber, and cedarwood.

Now, the good news is that both the women's and men's collections come in convient, and slightly more affordable, travel sets. Presented in a black box emblazoned with the signature crown and lined with satin, the sets contain 0.3 ounce spray bottles of No. 1, 1872, and X. Each set retails for $285.

Clive Christian perfumes can be purchased at The Perfume House, Bergdorf Goodman, Nordstrom, Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, and Fortnum and Mason.

image and perfume description source: Bergdorf Goodman

Choosing the perfect "Attraction" Perfume

2006-11-09T11:57:00.000-08:00

Timing is not typically something associated with the wearing of perfume. But according to scent expert Luca Turin, timing is everything. For instance, if you are trying to make a favorable early impression, it is important to wear a perfume with good sillage. Sillage is a French term refering to the wake of scent left in the room after you leave. He gives the example of Givenchy’s Amarige d’Amour which is all radiance, a strident tuberose-lavender accord that sings the perfumery equivalent of trumpet calls at a tournament.

Good heart notes are required if you want your scent to be most noticeable after a couple of hours. Rather than giving specific examples, Turin suggests personal experimentation. He explains that it is best to start with perfumes that have been around for a few decades: they seldom survive by accident.

And for the big finish, choose a scent with an excellent dry-down. Examples include classics such as Chanel Nol 5, Patou’s Joy, Piguet’s Bandit, and Guerlain’s Shalimar. Modern masterpieces include Bulgari Black and Bond No. 9’s Chinatown.

For more, please see the Times article.

Extensive Perfume Gallery Recreates Historical Fragrances

2006-11-07T08:52:00.000-08:00

The Osmotheque is a vast fragrance conservatory in Versailles, France, that collects, catalogues and recreates perfumes of the past. It contains over 1700 fragrances, many reproduced from the original formulas.

Susan Stone, a contributing reporter/producer for NPR's All Things Considered, recently went to the Osmotheque and uncovered some interesting facts. For instance, Paul Poiret, a fashion designer whose perfumes preceded Coco Chanel's No. 5, created a very sweet scent in 1914. He named it Le Fruit Defendu, or Forbidden Fruit. Unfortunately, his timing couldn't have been worse. This perfume was reviled by the population because it was launched during the Great War. It was perceived as a scented slap in the face against the bloody backdrop of the the war. Today, it smells not unlike many sweet scents on the market and would probably be a huge hit. For more, please go to NPR.

The Osmotheque is open to the public (although appointments are required). There are weekly lectures about the history of perfumery and the techniques involved. Visitors can see slide presentations and films about perfumery, learn more about the raw materials used, and even try some samples. For further information, please see this article in Osmoz.

image: npr.org

Pilar and Lucy Eaux des Parfums

2006-11-06T09:55:00.000-08:00

Today's installment in our "Better Know a Niche Perfumery" series features Pilar and Lucy.

Luscious cargo tells us that Pilar and Lucy is a cult name among fragrance mavens and home of some of the most exquisite new scents this side of Hollywood, this enchanting line is the brainchild of Victoria and Gretchen, ballerina and poet respectively, who tapped into their past lives to create a perfectly mesmerizing line of perfumes and lotions. With a tip of the hat and an affectionate nod to the Hollywood of yesteryear, these scents are adored by twirly girls everywhere---and counts Carmen Electra and Jennifer Love Hewitt and Mena Suvari among its grateful devotees...

This line features three scents which evoke old Hollywood glam and youthful exuberance.

The first eau de parfum, I: the exact friction of stars, is a warm, vanilla-based scent with a hint of coconut.

The second, II: to twirl all girly, is a warm, floral gardenia scent.

And finally we have III: tiptoeing through chambers of the moon. This rich, complex floral is my favorite of the three. It combines heady tuberose on a deep amber base. Very pretty and elegant!

Each fragrance also comes in a long-lasting perfume oil version as well as lotion.

Robin at Now Smell This says, "I love Pilar & Lucy's glam bottles and cutesy perfume names, but I have to admit to feeling some trepidation about their latest, Tiptoeing Through Chambers of the Moon..." rest of review...

Lucy and Pilar is available at luckyscent, home 101, Luscious cargo and blush beauty bar.

image: luckyscent

First Women's Scent for Horse Lovers

2006-11-04T23:55:00.000-08:00

Something we have not yet talked about in this blog is the idea of "a niche within a niche." This refers to any particular subset within a special category. For instance, today we are talking about a niche fragrance dedicated to people who love horses.

"Nuzzle" is a new fragrance designed for horse lovers and equine enthusiasts. It contains fruity plum, black currant, juicy orange, and lime.

Available in a 50 ml Spray Eau de Parfum for $36.00, Nuzzle comes nested in a pink and black box adorned with a "good luck" crystal horseshoe charm. Nuzzle can be purchased at shopnuzzle.com and fine tack shops and boutiques popular with horse enthusiasts.

Portions of Nuzzle proceeds will be donated to Habitat for Horses, a non-profit organization dedicated to the welfare of horses.

Nuzzle Products are not tested on animals.

There are many other niche-within-a-niche fragrances which we will discuss in future blogs. Do you have any suggestions?

image source: shopnuzzle.com

2006-11-02T11:55:00.000-08:00

Sometimes you just want to have a fragrance that is uniquely your own. One way to do this is by spritzing on a couple different perfumes together to make your own fragrant statement.

Another way is to have a scent custom-blended just for you. Custom-blended fragrances have typically been prohibitively expensive, with price-points starting at $40,000. Fortunately, there are now more affordable options. For example, the British company, Create-Your-Own-Fragrance, charges £30, or approximately $60, for a 50ml eau de parfum atomizer.

The fun process of designing your scent can all be done on-line at Createyourownfragrance.net. You will be led through a series of questions aimed at understanding you better. Questions include naming your favorite food, favorite time of day, interests, favorite perfume, least favorite perfume, and others designed to give a snapshot into your preferences and character. The short quiz alone is very entertaining!

Once you've answered the questions, paid you money, and received your personal blend, if you don't just love it, you may return it for a "full, no quibble refund."

image source: Createyourownfragrance.net

Crazylibellule and the Poppies - Shanghaijava Collection

2006-10-31T08:17:00.000-08:00

Sometimes a perfume line comes along that makes you smile just to say the name! Such is the case with the new French line: Crazylibellule and the Poppies. This company makes a charming line of solid perfumes which come in a lipstick-like applicator. Made of a waxy compound, the perfumes are applied "anywhere you'd like to be kissed" and offer very long-lasting staying power. Even the retro packaging is bright and grin-inducing!

The first collection to be offered in the U.S. is the Shanghaijava Collection. These seven sensual, exotic blends evoke the mystery of oriental nights. The set includes Lilas Spiritual, Litchi Blossom, Encens Mystic, Ginger and Coconut, Musc & Patchouli, Ananas Imperial, and Blue Orchidee. Of the seven, my favorite is Lilas Spiritual. With its creamy, lilac scent, it is like a cheerful breath of springtime. An added plus is that these products meet the strict new air travel regulations and can be carried onto the airplane in your handbag!

Aromascope says, "The line was launched in French Sephora in 2005 and became an instant success and has finally made its debut in the U.S. The brand name has a quirky vibe to it, “libellule” meaning “dragonfly” in French because “like fragrance, dragonflies delicately hover in the air and then lightly touch down”, and “crazy” references the female proclivity for fantasy and “the Poppies” stand for freedom in nature..." (here is the rest of Ina's review...)

Robin at Now Smell This reviews Encens Mystic. "Encens Mystic is mildly sweet at most, and could easily be worn by either sex. All of the Crazylibellule & The Poppies solids leave a bit of a waxy residue on skin. It didn't bother me in the least, but if you think it will bother you, consider yourself warned." (Here is the rest of Robin's review...)

The perfume sticks come in 5 gram containers at the reasonable price of $16 each and can be purchased at b-glowing and blush beauty bar in Portland, Oregon.

image source: b-glowing

Niche perfumery

2006-10-28T17:45:00.000-07:00

There is quiet revolution brewing in the world of perfumery. In small and not-so-small perfume studios across the U.S. and in Europe, there has been an incredible flowering of niche perfumery. I define niche perfumes as those which are created by individual perfumers with the finest ingredients on a small scale with an incredible attention to detail and product. There is a wide variation of philosophies within niche perfumery: some perfumers use only natural ingredients; others use a combination of natural essential oils and laboratory-made ingredients. Some use alcohol as a base, while others use oil or wax. Some niche perfumers create a large line of scents, while other make 3 or 4. Some of these perfumer sell only from their own studio, while others have their products in select boutiques around the world. But the common ingredient to all niche perfumers is a heart-felt passion for their profession and their product.

Future postings to this blog will highlight niche perfumers here and abroad. We will look at what other bloggers have said, and include original articles and interviews with niche perfumers. We will also look at those retailers, both online and in brick-and-mortar stores, who make these wonderful products available for our use.

Rubbing Wrists Together Does NOT Change Perfume Scent

2006-10-26T08:08:00.000-07:00

How many times have we been told NOT to rub our wrists together after applying perfume because doing so will break the molecules of the perfume and destroy the scent?!?

Allure's beauty editor, Linda Wells, finally lays this myth to rest in the new book, ALLURE: Confessions of a Beauty Editor.

She writes, "Finally an astute reader with a doctorate in chemistry wrote in and pointed out that if it were that easy to crush single molecules, her job would be a lot easier. Good point, Maggie Topp from the Netherlands. From now on, we'll rub to our heart's content."

image source: Amazon.com

Let them eat cake, and smell good while doing so!

2006-10-25T09:29:00.000-07:00

"A fragrance worn by Marie-Antoinette, a woman sometimes described as the world's first fashion victim, has been re-created by a French perfume-maker for an exhibition at the Palace of Versailles." Click here to read entire Times Online article...

This perfume consists of lavender, rose petal, jasmine, iris, galbanum, essence of citron tree, musk, tonka bean, ambergris, vanilla, benjamin, cedar and sandalwood. The recipe for the perfume was discovered by Elisabeth de Feydeau, a French historian. It is a floral bouquet made from completely natural products. It sells for the queenly price of $440, with the profits going toward restoration of Marie-Antoinette's furniture and objects.

Painting by Elisabeth Vigee-LeBrun
image source: Encyclopedia Britannica

Belle Fleur Candles

2006-10-24T13:45:00.000-07:00

We have been talking a lot lately about environmental scenting. Good - bad - indifferent. But I am a big fan of scenting my home and am always trying new products. I am on the hunt for that perfect fresh, clean floral scent with no chemically undertone.
The elegant Fifth Avenue Florist Belle Fleure may have the answer. It now offers sumptuous candles for the home. They combine rare botanicals with delicate florals to produce long-lasting (approx. 45 hours) fragrances. The Exotic Garden collection features 4 scents: Mayan tuberose, orange blossom pomegranate, jasmine verbena, and white orchid tea. Priced at $48, think about it as $1/hour of delicious fragrance!

image: Belle Fleure

The Ethics of Scent Branding

2006-10-23T08:09:00.000-07:00

Yesterday's British Times Online features an interesting article about "scent branding," which is widespread in America and is now arriving in Britain.

Also known as "Muzak for the nose", scent branding refers to the pumping of particular scents into hotel and retail spaces with the aim of influencing shoppers' purchasing decisions.

Writer Iain Hollingshead states, "The smells are not designed as air fresheners. Instead, firms are trying to affect consumer behavior through the subliminal use of smell. The idea is to encourage them to spend more time and money in a store or help them associate a smell with a brand."

Are we entering a slippery slope here? What are the ethical implications of subliminally manipulating our purchasing decisions in this way?

Color Fun!

2006-10-21T09:10:00.000-07:00

Today we are giving our noses a rest and looking at a fun website called Colorstrology. This site shows you your own special color based on your birthday. My special color for September 17 is... Tabasco! The accompanying description makes me sound more like a worker bee than a perfume bee, but there you have it! What is your special color? Do you resonate with it?

This website came to us from a link on Ava Luxe's site. Ava Luxe is an indie perfumer based in San Diego. Definitely one to watch! (Thanks to Marlen at The Perfume Critic for this tip).

Vanilla-Lover's Delight

2006-10-19T19:40:00.000-07:00

If a little vanilla is good, then a lot of vanilla must be better! Such is the case with indie-perfumer Susanne Lang's set of 9 vanilla-based roll-on eaux de parfums. These scents can be mixed and matched to create your own personal blend. The set includes 4-ml bottles of Vanilla coconut, Midnight orchid, Warm vanilla, Vanilla wood, Vanilla champagne, White chocolate, Vanilla sugar, Sugarcane, and Vanilla musk.

The Vanilla Collection is available at Luckyscents and select Saks stores.

image source: Osmoz

The Madeleine Effect

2006-10-19T13:45:00.000-07:00

Have you ever caught a whiff of something and suddenly been thrust back to another time and place? I know that whenever I smell a particular ginger/molasses aroma, I am instantly back in the warm cozy kitchen of my grandmother Margaret. Scientists have a name for this: The Madeleine Effect. This is based on a passage written by Marcel Proust in Remembrance of Things Past. He describes how the fragrance of a madeleine cake dipped into linden tea suddently sent him back to his childhood. When a strong memory is evoked by catching a sudden sniff of a scent, "the madeleine effect" is present.

This reference is found in an article in the current issue of Scientific American Mind. Author Eleonore Von Bothmer points out that the sense of smell is one of the oldest senses, from an evolutionary point of view, and is strongly associated with emotions and memory. Interestingly, loss of smell may be indicative of some neurodegenerative diseases. For example, at the onset of Parkinson's and Alzheimer's, people frequently lose their ability to smell.

Seeing Scents: Braille Packaging at L'Occitane

2006-10-18T06:39:00.000-07:00

Have you ever noticed the small, discreet dots found on the labels of L'Occitane products? L'Occitane uses braille as a way to help the blind and vision-impaired to make informed choices.

L'Occitane also has a summer perfume school created to help blind and poor-sighted teenagers learn about the the world of perfume. The school aims to aid in the development of these young people's oflactory senses, and perhaps open doors to a future career.

While this blog accepts no paid advertising, I believe exemplary companies deserve kudos. Well done, L'Occitane!

image source: L'occitane

Patchouli Oil: Mothball of the Middle Ages!

2006-10-16T21:19:00.000-07:00

What is it about patchouli oil? For most people, it evokes a strong love or hate reaction. Many associate it with the free spirited energy of the sixties. Others find is reminiscent of earthy bodies in need of a bath. In a recent radio interview on Studio 360, Kurt Andersen discussed this and other "scented" topics with the New York Times perfume critic Chandler Burr.

Burr explains that in the Middle Ages patchouli was the smell of the spices and vegetable matter that the Middle-eastern traders would pack around silks that they would then ship to Europe.

He states, "The Europeans associated these luxury goods with this smell and therefore they came to think of patchouli as something that was luxurious. To the Arabs, the stuff smelled like mothballs, because, of course, that's what it was, it was a kind of mothball!"

I personally find patchouli off-putting in large doses, but appreciate its role as a base-note in many wonderful fragrances such as Gucci Rush, Le Labo Patchouli 24, and Jil Sander No. 4.

For more of Chandler Burr's insights, I encourage you to check out Robin's interview with him at Now Smell This.

Le Labo Jasmin 17

2006-10-15T15:35:00.000-07:00

I made a beeline for the ultra-hip Le Labo perfume boutique in Nolita when I was in NYC last month. While there, I had a wonderful conversation with Eddie Roschi, one of the co-founders. He took the time to explain many ingredients of perfumery to me and my two friends, Chris and Jan. One of the most interesting discussions was about ambergris, a product highly valued as a perfume fixative. It is a product of whale digestion (yes, you read that correctly), which comes about when the sperm whale regurgitates a mass of partially-digested squid. It is, says Eddie, "like coughing up a hairball," which then floats on the surface of the ocean or washes up on the beach. Depending on the quality and current market, ambergris sells for as much as $60-$240 per pound.

Eddie then pulled a jar from his amazing apothecary, and inside was a dark, grayish lump of waxy-looking ambergris. We three all took a sniff of this animalic product and unanimously agreed that it would be fascinating to know how the first person ever decided to use this in perfumery! It was not an offensive scent; rather, we just pondered the thought process that may have led to using whale vomit residue in this way!

We thoroughly enjoyed testing all ten of Le Labo's scents. I came away with a bottle of Jasmin 17, a very feminine floral composed of jasmine, litsea cubeba (exotic verbena), neroli, orange flower, palma rosa, bigerade (bitter orange), amber, musk sandalwood and vanilla.

For a wonderful interview with Eddie, check out Marlen's conversation at The Perfume Critic.

Scent of Colors

2006-10-14T11:53:00.000-07:00

For a refreshing visual break, I suggest visiting the Scent of Colors site. It is a japanese floral blog, organized by colors. The link between flowers and scent is obvious, but until digiscent (the topic of a future blog) is readily available, we must satisfy ourselves with inspiring pictures on our computers. (Of course, we could and should be surrounding ourselves with mountainous bouquets of real flowers, but sometimes a quick glance at the computer screen is all we have time for)!

This site was mentioned on Emily Davidow's website Emily's playground, which I highly recommend visiting when you want to feel uber-hip and in-the-know. Be sure to scroll her great pop-culture links.

Badgley Mischka perfume

2006-10-13T16:30:00.000-07:00

With their eponynous debut fragrance, Mark Badgley and James Mischka have created a lovely, hollywood-glamour era perfume. It is a spicy-floral fragrance with notes of jasmine, cassis, osmanthus flower, white peony, caramel amber, Indian sandalwood, patchouli, and musk.

The perfume opens with a strong fruity/foral beginning and then softens to a soft, woodsy finish. In the first few minutes, I was reminded of Fath de Fath. But half an hour later, Badgley Mischka had its own distinctly elegant message. It felt warm and inviting, like a finely spun cashmere sweater. My only complaint is that its lasting power (on me) is about a 4, on a scale of 1 (evaporates instantly) to 10 (lasts overnight).

For more about what Mark and James have been up to, check out this recent interview: Showbuzz

Autism Fundraising Project at "The Perfume Critic"

2006-10-12T15:30:00.000-07:00

October is National Austism Month. Our friend, Marlen, The Perfume Critic, has set up an Autism fundraising project. For every $1 US you send to PerfumeCritic.com, you will be entered into a drawing for a bottle of Estee Lauder's Youth Dew Amber Nude eau de parfum. The proceeds will be donated to the Autism Society of America.

To make a donation, please visit The Perfume Critic.

Marlen was inspired by Ayala Moriel, Canada's premier natural perfumer. Ayala has created an Autism Fundraiser which supports Autism Communication Training of British Columbia.

Autism is near and dear to my heart, as I have a sweet nephew who is autistic. It is wonderful to know that perfume-lovers can help support this important cause.

The Perfume Bee

The Perfume Bee Has Moved!

http://theperfumebee.com

Spring Break

photos © Copyright 2007 by The Perfume Bee.

My New e-Book is Available: "The Perfume-Lover's Guide to Paris: A 3-Day Walking Tour"

Niche Fragrance Launch: Two New Scents from "Eau d'Italie"

Fifi Awards Finalists Announced

Jasmine 2006 Literary Award Goes to Hannah Betts

Guerlain Launches New L’Art et la Matière Fragrance: Iris Ganache

Molinard Perfume Launches New Series

La Collection parfumée de Molinardimage source: OsMoz

Flapper does the Charleston; image source: wikipedia.org

Chanel No. 19: Quest for the Eau de Parfum Continues

images source: french Chanel.com

Fragrance Launch: "Purplelight" by Dali

YouTube Video: "Prince 1987 LS Tour Live"Perfume image and notes source: OsMoz.com.

Christian Lacroix Launches New Fragrance: "C'est la Fête!"

image and notes source: beaute-addict.com.

Niche Perfumers in the News

Fragrance Review: Éclat d'Arpège

image source: Nordstrom

image source: Nordstrom

Chanel Announces New Fragrance for Men: "Allure Homme Sport"

image and notes source: OsMoz.

Vintage Men's Fragrances

perfume ad image: images de parfums.

California Dreamin'

image source: OsMoz

Scent Education Promoted by Christopohe Laudamiel

photo source: National Science Teachers Association (2004)

Cacharel's New "Liberté" Fragrance to Launch this Spring

perfume image and information source: wwd.com.Dan Flavin's artwork: National Gallery of Art.

Better-Know-A-Niche Perfumery: fresh scents / terri

image source: freshscentsterri.com

Serge Lutens, 'Goldsmith of the Senses,' Awarded French Honor

Mood and Scent: Clarins Eau Ensoleillante

Clarins image and notes source: OsMozGriffonia image source: www.europhyto.com

Sheer Stella

image source: aufeminin.com.

Oh, Tulip, Where is Thy Scent?

Tulip Photo © 2007 The Perfume Bee

Chanel No. 19

Source for Chanel No. 19 image: nordstrom.com.

Better-Know-A-Niche Perfumery: Renée

image and fragrance notes source: renee.com.au

Chanel Delight: 31 rue Cambon

Source for Rear Window image: amazon.com.

Sparks - Perfume Video

Les Caprices de Lolita: Lolita Lempicka Launches 3 New Scents

image and information source: aufeminin.com.

Better-Know-A-Niche Perfumery: elizabethW

Golden Gate Bridge image source: daniel steger at openphoto.netperfume image source: elizabethW

Fragrance Launch: Theo Fennell Scent

image and information source: wwd.com.

Better-Know-A-Niche Perfumery: Téo Cabanel

image source: osmozinformation source: Téo Cabanel and Osmoz.

Happy Valentine's Day from The Perfume Bee!!!

Top image: Dance at Bougiva (1883) by Pierre-Auguste Renoir; The Museum of Fine Arts at Boston; source: ibiblio.org.Bottom image: Photo of terra cotta pomegranate © The Perfume Bee.

Los Angeles Sniffapalooza at Apothia 2007

Karen Adams, moi, and Karen Dubin at LA Sniffapalooza 2007

photos © The Perfume Bee

The Scent Bar: A Perfume-Lover's Delight!

images source: luckyscent.com

Valentine's Day Fragrance: Gift with a Conscience...

photo source: the body shop

Coco Chanel is Inspiration for Six New Fragrances: Les Exclusifs

photo source: fashiontomorrow.comquote source: wikiquote.orgfragrance descriptions source: W Magazine

Better-Know-A-Nose: Stéphanie de Saint Aignan and Céline Ellena

photo source: Michael Jastremski at openphoto.net

Perfume & Technology: Smell Phones!

Better-Know-a-Niche Perfumery: Tom Ford's Private Blend Fragrance Collection

info and photo source: wwd.com; photo by John Aquino

New: Edith Piaf Fragrance and Film...

edith piaf black/white photo source: Creative commonsLa Mome movie poster source: allocine.frFragrance image source: aufeminin.com

Fragrance Review: Perfect Bliss Perfume Oil

photo source: fragrances and more

Fragrance Review: Love N.1 Perfume Oil

image source: theorganicbeautyexpert

Jon Bon Jovi and Kenneth Cole: Fragrance to Fight Homelessness

La Collection parfumée de Molinard
image source: OsMoz

Flapper does the Charleston;
image source: wikipedia.org

YouTube Video: "Prince 1987 LS Tour Live"
Perfume image and notes source: OsMoz.com.

perfume image and information source: wwd.com.
Dan Flavin's artwork: National Gallery of Art.

Clarins image and notes source: OsMoz
Griffonia image source: www.europhyto.com

Golden Gate Bridge image source: daniel steger at openphoto.net
perfume image source: elizabethW

image source: osmoz
information source: Téo Cabanel and Osmoz.

Top image: Dance at Bougiva (1883) by Pierre-Auguste Renoir; The Museum of Fine Arts at Boston; source: ibiblio.org.

Bottom image: Photo of terra cotta pomegranate © The Perfume Bee.

photo source: fashiontomorrow.com
quote source: wikiquote.org
fragrance descriptions source: W Magazine

edith piaf black/white photo source: Creative commons

La Mome movie poster source: allocine.fr

Fragrance image source: aufeminin.com

photo image: Coach purse spray;
photo credit: Robert Mitra

perfume images source: bermuda perfumery
lilies-of-the-valley image source: wikipedia